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Re: Fills, does not agitate, drains, spins, fills, does...
Grab the agitator at the base and give it a quick push upward..remove and see if the white dome with bolt holding it down is stripped on the inside where it splines onto the transmission shaft. :)
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Your agitator pindle. has come loose From the spline. Try to lift up on the agitator. If it lifts off the spindle easily then it has worn out the spline. That is what connects the agitator to the s
Check the drive to the drum and check the paddle. It is possible also that there is no output to the motor for the wash cycle and if so the control panel board is a suspect.
check your lid switch ,or debriss in drain pump ,pump can not run will not spin untill machine waterlevel switch comes below a certain level of water pressure
If the machine fills, won't agitate, wont drain or spin, then you need to replace the lid switch.
if machines fills, wont agitate, will drain but not spin, then you need to replace the motor coupling
Unfortunately, that sounds like a transmission issue. Power is getting to the trans, or it wouldn't spin, but the other part of the trans that causes agitation is broken.
Okay...I'm a little confused on your symptoms. You initially said it fills, but doesn't agitate or spin, but drains. Then, you finished with the washer filling, no agitate or spin, but now doesn't drain. Which one is it? The symptoms you describe are usually associated with the following: 1. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or drain - lid switch. 2. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin, but still drains - motor coupling. 3. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or spins slow - gear case. 4. Fills, agitates, spins, but does not drain – water pump. NOTE: These are the more common failure items with these symptoms. Double check the lid switch by opening and closing the lid. You should hear a clicking noise to indicate the switch is working. The switch is located under the top panel along the wash tub rim on the right-hand side. If not, check to make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid itself) is in place. This activates the lid switch when the lid is closed. Also, check the mounting screws along the rim (there are two of them) to see if they are tight. If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would still drain, but there would be a rattling sound as the washer tries to spin or agitate. If you need replacement parts, go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number in the "Search by Model Number" window. The lid switch can be found under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #3949238).Instructions on how to replace are located at the following link: http://www.fixya.com/support/r385199-replacing_lid_switch_whirlpool_top If you wish to replace the motor coupling, the part can be found under the “Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump” heading as item number 13 (part #285753A).If you need instructions on how to replace, just follow this link: http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top Now, there’s a couple of ways to drain the washer. If it’s a simple lid switch problem, you don’t need to drain the washer to replace the switch.With a broken switch repaired, the washer will run and drain by itself.However, if you wish to drain the tub you can use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain hose.This may take a few times depending on the size of the shop vac.These wash tubs typically have about a 35 gallon capacity.If you do not own a shop vac, you can by-pass the lid switch by jumpering the two BLACK wires at the lid switch connector that is connected to the console.CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before jumpering, then plug back in. I hope this information is helpful to you.If I’m wrong about the symptoms, please post back and update me on what the washer is or is not doing, so I can assist you further.
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