What voltage and amperage is required to trip a shunt trip unit

weld current output regulation on this machine is usually accomplished by voltage supplied across a 50 milli volt shunt that is usually connected at one end of the main rectifier, if this shunt fails, or if the connections are loose or damaged, you will not have current control, your control board may also have some issues
Upon removing the machine covers, if there is no easily seen damage, it will be best to seek out and take it to an LASF for repair.

You either have a bad unit that is drawing too much amperage or the unit requires more amps than the current circuit breaker allows.

depends on the rating lighting is 5-7amp, wall sockets 13 - 20 amps (depending on model number can be 7amps), cooker 30amps.

A shunt is always energized and it has a purpose. The purpose is to bypass some of the load from the main circuit. It would be tripping due to overload

Hi,

I already explained, you need to replace the big 1.5uF Capacitor that
is reponsible for the voltage drop from 220V to about 10V. You need to
remove the timer controler module from the oven, in the meanwhile you
can shunt the 2 wires that usually are shunt by the relay, and then
buy a new capacitor and replace it with a soldering iron.

Good luck.

A shunt trip breaker operation.

It works just like a normal circuit breaker with one additional function. A shunt-trip breaker also has a built-in magnetic coil that can be energized externally to trip the breaker.

So what is wired to the shunt that is not letting the breaker reset?


Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_does_a_shunt_trip_breaker_work#ixzz1EXNCP5r0

Treat the shunt trip as if it were a switch. The neutral (usually white wire) on the shunt trip connects to the neutral busbar. The other (usually black) wire is the "switched leg", so to speak. The hot that goes out to the relay comes off a _separate_ breaker. The return from the relay connects to the black "switched leg" on the shunt tip. Most shunt trips have 2 wires coming off the shunt trip, a white and a black. If your breaker has contacts instead of wires coming off the shunt trip, the concept is still the same.

Incoming voltage fluctuations appear to be your problem. 94 volts is not enough to run that AC without causing problems. 114 volts will be o.k.
Remember, when voltage goes down, your amperage draw goes up. That will trip the breaker, and eventually weaken it if it happens too often and it will start tripping at even lower amperage's. Low voltage also will shorten the life of the components. So basically when running at 115 volts, the circuit will handle it, but when you get as low as 94 volts, it will trip that breaker due to higher amperage draw.

Look on the unit for the electrical data plate. It should have the required amperage rating on it.
Have the actual amperage being pulled by the unit checked.
You may have improper voltage being supplied to the unit which causes excessive amperage.
The breaker could be weak. Meaning that it may be tripping at an amperage less than 30.
Your wire size may be too small for the circuit which would cause overheating of the circuit and tripping the breaker.
Do not change the breaker to a higher amperage unless the wire size attached to that circuit is rated for it.
A breakers job is to stop power should a overheating of circuit or a short circuit occurs. It protects the circuit from catching fire inside the walls and burning the place down.
Good Luck and I hope this helps.

Probably easier and about the same price to just buy a shunt trip main breaker. IIRC, code usually requires that anyway.

As far as the c25dnd330, it's just a regular 3 pole contactor, each pole is good for 30 amps. The three poles are L1,2,&3>>>T1,2,&3. The other two contacts are the control coil. I believe your model is 120 volt (most are)....the voltage should be stamped somewhere near the contacts.