Where can I buy probes for a Nexxtech Model No. 2218202 talking multimeter?

JAYCAR or like electronic retailer will have suitable probes for you

* I've found replacement meter probes on Amazon.com; https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=probes+meters&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aprobes+meters
* Is this an Antique? If so then your looking for exact (original) replacements. Suggest Ebay or similar.
* I have an older meter and found I've needed to replace the test probe or wires that crumbled away. Radio Shack used to be the "Goto" store but that's gone. I've sourced the "ruberized" wire or "Test Lead Wire" as it's called on Amazon.com.
Aloha, ukeboy57

only option is to do what i do and that is to re solder them myself .or buy a new machine .

How to Test the Ice Mold HeaterA modular unit will have several holes in the module, each marked with a letter (similar to the one pictured below). These holes are for test probes. If there are no holes then the ice maker is a component model and the components can be tested individually.Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the control module heater for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multimeter should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms.
If the heater does not pass this test, replace the ice mold heater.
How To Test the MotorConduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the control module motor for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "M" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multimeter should show continuity, with resistance possibly as high as 10,000 ohms.

The problem you describe is with the temperature probe which is short circuit and which need to be replaced.

We have here below the link with the parts diagram of your model where you find the temperature probe and also you can order the part from the same link.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5136688&diagram_id=28294584#d28294584

Test the AC adapter's (Charger) plug with a multimeter set to DC voltage.
(You can buy an economical multimeter for around $10 to $12)

If the DC voltage has different scales to use, advise using the 0 to 50 volt scale.

The center of the plug is Positive.
The outer shell is Negative.

The Positive probe lead (Red) of the multimeter goes to the center of the plug.
The Negative probe lead (Black) goes to the outer shell.


YES, Voltage is absolutely imperative! You can go a little higher with Amperage. (Amp)

. is the flame detection probe or its wiring harness, this sits right on the heat ex and over time melts and sticks to the heat ex so looses continuty.

To check if the detection probes faulty, get a multimeter pull the wiring off the probe stick one end of multimeter on probe connection, other end to the wiring plug, set your multimeter to mirco volts. fire boiler up. you want more than 1.5MV's or probes is knakered! Check continuity of wiring, also check wiring is full pushed in to the white molex connector too.

Hi.

Since the oven has two heating elements, if the oven does not heat up on any condition, and both broiling and baking element are not working, then the most common fault causing the problem is a faulty temperature probe.

The temperature probe is located inside the oven cavity.
On most ovens there is only one temperature sensor, connected in line on the circuit from electronic oven control to baking and broiling element.
When the probe fails, it will affect both baking and broiling function.

The temperature probe is tested reaching the probe, cutting or disconnecting its wiring, and testing the probe at room temperature, with a multimeter set on impedance at Rx1. If the multimeter reads no continuity (circuit open), then the probe must be replaced.

If the temperature probe is good, then parts that may be responsible for the fault are oven electronic control and wiring. Having both elements failing at the same time would be rather unusual.

If only one element is failing, then the fault is probably the element. In that case you can test the element removing it from the cavity, and testing Ohms on the element. If circuit is open , then the element must be replaced.

Regards.

it's a piece of carp. anomalous multimeter readings, one switch kills a different set of leads, etc etc

sounds like the pull cord switch i dont thunk you will be able to find a replacement proberly cheaper to buy a new celing fan