I have checked the heating ele 0.009 same with the everything in back except the dryer cycling thermostat which tests good on the outside prongs (thick) infinity on the inside prongs(smaller). I bought a new one it tests the same assuming it should? have 240 and 120 each side. What else is there? has to be uptop?
Did you pull the element out and test it? I think it is your heating element. Visually inspecting is never enough. Just hook it up to high voltage independently to ensure it heats. It will turn red hot.
I will try that I pulled it and tested continuity. I did not do a live power test I will make some some connectors though and try it. Thank you for your time.
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SOURCE: NEW Electric Whirlpool Cabrio Steam Dryer; NO HEAT
Check temperature sensor. Check to see if heating element is OK.
SOURCE: Whirlpool duet electric wil not heat
Remove 1 wire from the element . Your 220 V comes from ...110 motor , 110 control board . Check which wire is not getting 110 V , trace it and see which it comes from . That will tell you which one is defective .
SOURCE: whirlpool dryer model LER3624jq0 has no heat but
They could get electricity but when the coils are broken into the will not heat. Diaphram is at AppliancePartsPros.com I dont actually know them but I found my parts there.
SOURCE: Whirlpool Dryer not heating
The motor has to be running for voltage to exit the motor going to the heater. With the back off the dryer and the motor running you should read 220 volts at the heater if all safetys and thermostats are good.
There is a thermal cut out relay on the heat canister. It must read continuity also.
Remember you must remove at least one wire from each component being tested to get a true open or closed reading. If a wire is left connected you get a false reading.
The heating element could be broken and part of the heater wire touching the canister. This would cause a continuity reading and still no heat.
Finally, yes,the centrifugal switch in the motor could be bad and not sending power to the heater on the red wire.
Testimonial: "I did determine it to be the cetrepetal switch..specifically the slide for the weights was heavily gummed up with dryer belt dust. It works now."
You really need a volt / ohm meter to check for Continuity & Volts
Its well worth the investment... $15.00 bucks give or take a few
I would check to see if you have 220v to back of dryer where the cord mounts to dryer,
If dryer is getting only 1 leg 110 volts instead of the 220 will it not heat.
Check themostates & heater for Continuity... Most models, Now have a.. Hi-limit fuses that need to be checked for Continuity
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