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The 15 inch woofer is blown and you are hearing only the tweeter horn. I would definitely check that speaker on something else though, because the amps inside will also blow fairly easy, and you can't get parts for these. I would salvage what you can and move on. If both speakers work alone, check connections and amp. If you find that the 15 does work, then make an unpowered monitor. Behringer does not give any referencing of any parts. They have all special part numbers that you can't crossreference to find replacements. This is a marketing strategy to eliminate others from repairing, so you will buy another one. They think they would sell more but it just turns musicians away from their junk. The only piece of behringer equipment worth using is the FCB1010 controller and nothing else.
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Make sure the volume and master volume are turned up. Try the amp with a different cabinet and a known good speaker cable. If you get sound, it's your speakers or your speaker cable.
If still no sound, you need your amp serviced.
The low in side jack has a lower vol. but should only be1/4 less than the high in jack on most amps, --try this,-- plug guitar in high in then take all the treble off and 1/2 mid. range bring up bass range and if you have equauzation bring down 26k 5k 10k about 2 notches or points. See if that give you better bass tone.
That bass combines passive EMG pickups with an active preamp (which provides the bass and treble controls). Sounds like you are never getting the preamp to work, and if that is the case there could be numerous reasons...a dead battery...jack wiring that is broken (meaning the battery ground wire is not attached or is grounding out)...likely should see a tech, but that is a good sounding bass when working correctly.
The jack on the guitars is a stereo type jack. The "ring" contact actually is connected to the battery and whenh the PLUG is inserted FULLY it coonects the ring contact of thee jack to the slkeeve contact of the jack which completes the circuit to turn on the battery. Hence while insertying the plug you will firsst get a snap as the tip of the plug ties to the ground of the guitar which is floating and picks up hum. Next the tip will touch the battery connection and get a snap. Finally when fully inserted both the battery is connected as well as the audio.
SOME guitars, especially those with tuners built inj will try tio fire up when the tip (audio) touches the battery cinnection. This may cycle and create the repetitive sound as it tries to start.
Listen to the output with headphones to check for noise.
OFTEN the output of a drum machine is CORRUPTED by an inadequate sound system. The waveforms generated by a drum machine tax the sound systems. A bass drum output can drive the speaker cone such that it goes beyond the linear range that the speaker and amplifier can handle and this appears as "noise". The noise may sound like a buzz or totally break up.
Turn the volume down and see if EXACTLY the same noise appears at low levels. If not, then saturation of the amp and speaker is likely. Continued use while it is doing that will often destroy the speaker.
I just fixed my bass amp with a similar problem last week: the problem is related to a loose connection on the PCB board (likely).
A bass amp is a rough place for circuitry: the low rumble and power shake a bass amp more than a guitar amp.
In my case, the power transistors needed to be re-soldered and then the grounding bolts and screws needed to be removed and cleaned because the connection was bad. Remember that when two different metals needed for an electric connection are toughing, there is the likelyhood that corrosion WILL happen.
My bass amp did basically the same thing yours did: sounded good at low volumes, but at higher volumes it would act up.
In short, there is nothing you can do (unless you are a repair person): you need to take it to a local music shop and have a tech fix the intermittant contact problem: someone who knows what they are doing should only take an hour at most.
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