Model #11029522801 replaced the lid switch with new one

Sounds like a bad safety switch / lid switch. These new machines have magnetic proximity switches used on the lid to make sure the lid is closed before the machine will spin or cycle. Part is usually around 25.00 at appliance parts house for walk in customers. You would need someone familiar with electricity to replace it as it deals with 120 volts.

There are videos at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html that will walk you thru testing and replacing this part. It may be a different model but the replacement will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available

The following link explains how to replace a lid switch:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385199-replacing_lid_switch_whirlpool_top

On the particular model you have listed, the lid switch should be located under the console near the right rear lid hinge.

You will need to use the steps in the link provided to remove the exterior case to access the switch to see how the actuator and lid hinge interface. You washer is manufactured by Whirlpool and uses Whirlpool parts, so these instructions will apply.

This is a very simple repair, but if you have any questions along the way, please let me know. I hope this is helpful to you.

NOTE: If you have not pruchased a new lid switch yet, the part number is 8054980. It can be purchased at appliancepartspros.com for about $18.

Your problem is more likely a broken lid switch. To test for this, lift the washer cover and look for a small hole in the washer top where the cover was. Push a toothpick gently into the hole and press the piece of plastic you see in the hole downward and listen for a soft clicking sound. If you don't hear a click or the plastic tab is not in the hole replace the lid switch.

Unplug the washer. Check the actuator on the lid that operates the lid switch to see if broken. Open the console of the washer. After removing the screws, the console will lift up and hinge back. Disconnect the plug going to the lid switch. Picture. Check the lid switch [lid closed] with an ohm meter from the wire plug-in leading to the switch. If no continuity, replace the lid switch. You will need to remove the cabinet to replace the switch. There are only a couple screws holding the lid switch assembly and a ground wire connection to the cabinet. Reassemble the washer and test the operation.

Unplug washer, remove the two console screws and tilt console back, remove cabinet clips, unlock lid switch block and then remove the cabinet. Remove the lid switch mounting screws, disconnect ground wire and remove lid switch assembly. Compare old switch to the new one. If the plastic sleeve of the new switch is longer, break off at the score mark. Pull wire partially out of sleeve before shortening sleeve. If the sleeve had to be shortened, the wires must be looped to take up the excess wire. Use supplied wire tie from the new kit. Install new switch assembly. New lid switch

Pay VERY close attention to assembling case back onto base so that sides engage tabs in base.

This is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. If the washer fills and won't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

If not activated by a lid strike, other models have the lid switch located under the washer casing next to one of the lid hinges. It is activated by a rod contacting an actuator. The mounting scews for this type are located under the operator console.

If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to access the washer interior and replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of a replacement is $25 to $35.

NOTE: Pounding on the lid or storing heavy items on the lid can contribute to premature failure of the lid switch.

If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

If not activated by a lid strike, other models have the lid switch located under the washer casing next to one of the lid hinges. It is activated by a rod contacting an actuator. The mounting scews for this type are located under the operator console.

If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.

Most of these spin related problems are attributed to a lid switch malfunction. A washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.

Let me know if you have any questions. I hope this helps you.

Most of these spin related problems are attributed to a lid switch malfunction. A washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.

Hi, The easiest way to replace the lid switch (if this is the reight model) is to remove the two screws holding the lid switch and pull the lid switch out so that you can splice the wires to the new switch. If you want to replace switch with the harness complete, here is how to remove the cabinet
Removing the cabinet. UNPLUG the washer. There are two screws holding the control panel to the cabinet. Most models the screw are in front but, some models have the screws in back. They are on each end. Now raise the control panel up and let it rest on the hinges. Unplug the lid switch harness and locate the clips on each side (bronze in color) and release them.
Now the cabinet will lift off the frame and you can set it aside. Now you will be able to get to the switch and replace it.
Plase let me know if I can assist you further.

Vic

Check your lid switch. This is a tell tale symptom of a lid switch gone bad. The washer fills, agitates, but will not spin or drain. The lid switch is located along the right hand side of the lid opening on most models, but some newer models have a switch in the left rear of the lid. Simply open and shut the lid several times and listen for a distinctive "click" of the lid switch as you open and close the lid. A lid switch usually runs about $35 to replace. If you provide me with your washer model number (usually located under the lid somewhere) I can give you the part number you need. That is...if the lid switch is the problem. The only other problem that I have encountered that caused the same symptoms, was a bad timer. Timer vs Lid Switch: Lid switch is a cheaper fix. I would try this option first. Let me know if this helps and/or if you need more guidance.