It began with it coming on for a few seconds and then shutting back off. Now it just blinks like it doesn't recognize that the kettle is on the base. Nothing is noticeably wrong with the contacts and the kettle is fitting securely on the base. There appears to be a short or a problem with a switch or contact.
SOURCE: Power went off last night and our phone stopped working
I had power outage last night now corder at&t 1855 led's keep flashing keeps telling me about power outage before every new message. How do I get rid of the flashing?
SOURCE: How do I clean the contact points between kettle and platform?
PROBLEM:
My problem was similar for the Cuisinart KUA-17. I clicked down the on switch and it stayed down. However, the light and power together seemed finicky. That is, the light came on if I positioned the kettle in the base correctly, but then it sometimes went off without triggering the switch to pop up. When the light went off while the switch remained down the water never boiled, but when I was lucky to position it such that the light remained on, the water did boil and the switch popped up ... as it should have. It seemed to be getting more and more finicky and difficult to position correctly ... so I took it apart.
SOLUTION:
First of all, the base has screws that take a triangle screwdriver which I don't have. So I found a small flat-headed screwdriver (like one you'd use for glasses) that just fit along one side of the triangle. I was able to get three base screws out this way and since I expected to need to do this again in the future, I used my dremel to grind a larger flat-headed screwdriver slot in each. It's been about a year and a half since I fixed it last time and this time I was glad I had the slots.
Once you get the plastic base off, you'll see the mechanics of the switch. There are two wires that both turn on the light and power the heater element. Where the wires connect to the switch mechanism, there are two metal tabs that stick out in opposite directions from the center. When the switch is pushed down, you can see these two tabs move. They are each moving to touch a contact and complete the electrical circuit. My problem was they were not making a good contact. The contacts are hidden behind the tabs. All I had to do was bend the contacts one millimeter closer (i.e. as little as possible) so that they would make a good contact. The only other trick was I had to remove the switch mechanism from the bottom of the kettle to do this. Then I just used the same small flat-headed screwdriver to bend the contact as in the picture below.
SOURCE: windows live messenger contacts list not showing up
I emailed microsoft about this problem,heard back 2 days later and there expert advice is.......It Is a known problem that Is currently being Investigated please except our regrets that this has happened and please roll back to messenger 8.5 untill the problem Is resolve.I had already done this when I got the email,but here is there workaround/solution
As
a workaround, you may try downgrading Windows Live Messenger. Please
follow the steps below how to uninstall version 2009 and install
version 2008.
a. Click Start, click Run and type appwiz.cpl and then press ENTER.
b. In the list of currently installed programs, locate and select Windows Live Essentials and then click Change/Remove.
c. Click Uninstall.
d. Follow the prompt on how to remove all Windows Live products accordingly.
e. Download version 2008: http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyID=7a1aae73-48cc-4f7a-b445-0487bd5e84ef&displaylang=en
SOURCE: H12 bluetooth will not charge
As the headset is repeatedly charged, the pins on the charger starts to not reach the blue tooth ear piece to charge. I clean the dust around the edges on the contact area and was able to get it to charge
SOURCE: Security light blinking and car won't start
you've run afoul of the "passlock" anti-theft, or "passive anti-lock system" (aka PATS). I'm pretty sure you're in for some attention from a GM dealer who appear to be the only ones with the hardware to "flash" the brain-box (PCM). Here's a sequence that I've seen noised around on some of these forums: Turn your ignition to "on" (don't try to start) and leave it for 10 minutes, Take the key out for ten minutes. The system has thus "learned" the new key metallurgy, and you can go ahead and start the car. It didn't work in my case but it's worth a shot. Also if you have a code scanner see if you have any trouble codes. Stay in touch with us on this as I'm still going around the pole on mine, ... cheers
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