Water does not get heated at all (temperature set to max or any temp). The heating element has continuity when disconnected and measured with a voltmeter. The temperature adjusting potentiometer is built into the electronic board. Is there anything I can check / do to get the heating back?
It is possible that the thermostat may be causing a problem if it is faulty. It might be sending wrong signal to controller confusing it to think water temperature is already reached and shut off the heater.
The thermostat may look like this part.
http://www.macspares.co.za/laundry/thermostat-defy-automaid-std-models?cPath=1_195_175&
Testimonial: "Sam, I tested the thermostat, it has open circuit. So I shortcircuited it (connected the two wires together) but it would still not heat. Tested the heater element with 220V, it works. When the machine should heat up, no power gets to the element. I can't find a wiring diagram for this machine on the net (DEFY Automaid 600, model DAW 322) - but I see on similar diagrams that the heating is switched off by the level sensor, so that it cannot heat without water in the drum. Without a diagram, it is difficult to guess where the fault may be. Any advise is greatly appreciated. All else on this washing machine works fine, just the heating ..."
The thermostat on this washing machine does not look like the one in the picture. It is a small round unit that is mounted on the heater plate. Inside the plate it is submerged in the water of the drum and does not touch the heater. Can I somehow measure to see if this thermostat is at fault? Does it change resistance with rising temperature? Is there a table to verify what the resistance should be?
I think you may be on the right track. I too am finding hard to advise you without finding a detailed serviced manual on DAW322. But I think if you can visually check the timer on your machine and compare with the ones on this site then you could find an electrically compatible Defy washer -http://www.appliancespares.co.za/front%2... This will help you find the possible pressure/ level switch used in your model. The possible options then are -http://www.appliancespares.co.za/front%2... You could test by isolating the pressure switch looking at the terminals.
Thank you so much for these hints. I could indentify the pressure switch and found a page showing the switch settings. I tested it and all looked good and working. Then I just refitted all, undid the thermostat shortwiring and started a washing cycle and to my surprise the water heated up!!! I have no idea where the fault could have been, maybe a faulty contact in one of the many plugs? Anyway, if the problem reoccurs, I will get another washing machine! Thank you very much for your help!
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SOURCE: water not heating up
check the float switch on the rinse tank if this shows a open circuit and the tank is full this will stop the heating cycle. again as before all depends on the depending on the make.
SOURCE: Fills with water, sounds like it starts to pump water then stops, then start again
you have a wash pump problem. can be 1 of 3 things. most likely something is caught in the pump impelor if not the wash pump motor may be faulty or ceized or it could be the capacitor for the wash pump motor is faulty. you can try removing the wash pump yourself and check the impelor if it spins freely then you will have a motor problem.
hope this helped
SOURCE: heating element broken, water leaking
You have to pull out dishwasher to replace the element.The element is easy to replace once you have pulled dishwasher out.This enables you to reach the area that you need to reach.It is common for a element to brake.On a newer dishwasher ,I would say it must have been defective if it just broke in half.Nothing electrical in a dishwasher can cause it to brake.
SOURCE: Not heating water
Is this an old or newer dishwasher many newer models will not bother trying to heat up the water if it does not come in hot enough there is a temperature sensor, if the water is cold heater will not come on because it will take it too long to heat the cold water.
Testimonial: "it was the temp sensor ,thank you"
SOURCE: Dishlex DX302SB Dishwasher water not
Who posted this comment I am really appreciative. I have had the same problem with my dishlex. I disassembled the plumbing and removed a chunk of plastic wrapping from inside the pump. Then I checked the heater with a multimeter. It measured fine.
The next day I read this post and have since removed the controller. I found the burnt solder joint mentioned. I have since cleaned up the mess, repaired the circuit board, re-soldered the effected component and the dishwasher is now working better than ever.
I have read elsewhere that this problem arises when the door is opened while the heater is on and the program hasn't been paused. I don't know if that is the exact cause but in my house we will be more careful about that from now on.
The damage to the circuit board was on the Normally Open terminal of the relay used to control the heater. The heater is marked as being about 2100 watts. The relay is marked as being able to switch 125Vac. Which is interesting because power here in Australia is 240Vac. At 240Vac the heater will draw a little under 10 amps when operating.
Anyway the circuit board trace is possibly a little narrow at the point where the burnt connection was and I can see why it would have burnt out. The other terminals on the relay were showing signs of becoming dry joints too. The repair was effected by completely removing the relay, cleaning all the joints, re-soldering the relay and laying a loop of tinned solid wire around the burnt terminal to replace the missing piece of circuit trace.
Anyone who has a little skill with a soldering iron could perform this repair. The worst that could happen is you could lift what is left of the circuit trace from the board. Since the controller is already broken you can have a go and probably save yourself the cost of a new controller.
Because electric tankless water heaters have to instantaneously raise the temperature of incoming water to a selected hot water temperature, they require very powerful heating elements. To power the heating elements of this 27,000 Watt model, you will need to upgrade the electrical service you were using for your storage tank water heater. The PowerStar AE125 will require a 240V, 200 Amp service. In addition you will need to install three 40 amp dedicated double pole breakers in your electrical box. In Canada, you will require one 120 Amp breaker.
The PowerStar AE125 electric tankless water heater incorporates a very sensitive flow sensor, and three heating elements. The heat from the electric elements is electronically modulated on the basis of the flow rate of the water entering the water heater, and the temperature rise that the water heater must achieve. Through its electronic modulation system, the AE125 maintains a very precise hot water temperature. As a safety precaution, each of the three heating modules is protected by an electro-mechanical thermal cut-out. This device will cut power to a particular module if the temperature gets too hot.
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This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.
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My DEFY Automaid 600 is a washing machine, not a dishwasher
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