Put oven through the self clean for the first time ever and found out afterwards that the temperature will not go above 350 degrees after it self cleans. Everything works, but the oven won't get hot. The elements won't get hot. Someone said that it's probably the microcomputer. The buttons beep when I touch them. Lights are on, door opens, just won't heat up. How do we get this fixed if we can. Found only 1 microcomputer board on ebay that is used. Thanks
1.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
2.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
3.
4.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.
THINGS TO CHECK:
the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.
Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
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SOURCE: Oven does not work after running self cleaning
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SOURCE: self cleaning oven won't start self clean mode
NO IN ORDER TO ENGAGE IN SELF CLEANING THE LOCK MUST FIRST ENGAGE. DOOR LOCK ASSEMBLY FAILURE
SOURCE: I have a Whirlpool electric build in oven with
Your thermal fuse or TOD mounted to the back of the oven went out during the self clean,it shuts off the power to the elements.
The oven must be removed from the wall to change this.
SOURCE: My oven says that it's on (heating up or cleaning,
no i do not think your elements are bad.it soundsd more like the main control board has malfunctioned.
Testimonial: "Thanks, I'll take a look."
SOURCE: Whirlpool Oven will not heat
Hello there:Usually,
when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake element is burned out.
The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the
oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an
expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may
last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.
If
the bake element is burned out, replacing it should solve the problem.
Otherwise, you need to further troubleshoot the oven's electrical system
to locate the defective wire or component.
When
the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, it could be one
of several different things. First check to see if the thermostat
sensing bulb has come loose from its holder. It could be lying on the
floor of the oven or resting on the heating element. This would cause
the oven to not heat correctly.
If the thermostat bulb is not dislodged, it's likely that the thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective.
Electronic
ovens with a digital display use a sensor to monitor oven temperature.
To solve temperature problems for these models, you may need to replace
the sensor. On some digital-display models, you can calibrate the
temperature using the key pad. See your operator's manual for details.
Ovens
without a digital display often use a mechanical system for controlling
temperature. On many of these units, you can remove the thermostat knob
and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual
setting of the thermostat.
If,
when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a
small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate,
then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven
temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace
the thermostat to solve the problem.
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