When I press start my machine will stay at the lock button. I hear a click but the green light does not go to wash.
LID LOCK LIGHT STAYS ON NO START:
Usually either the lid lock mechanism, the lid lock actuator or the board is the culprit even a disconnected capacitor.
MACHINES SAIDS SENSING
When the START button is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washer
will slowly spin the dry load to estimate the load size, and begin adding water. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has been
added for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load.
NOTE: The sensing light may also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal.
Try unplugging the cord a couple of times. See what happens then try going into diagnostic error codes, see what codes are shown. To pin point where the problem is. if you have no display to read the fault codes. Your main control board may be the issue.
Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.
This is proof that the shifter/sensor actuator assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.
I suggest unplug the washer and check the wire connections on the switch. If a meter is available then you can check the resistance (ohms) of the lock motor.
Note: After performing the manual test and the lid lock works perfectly, or at least as it is supposed to. You can eliminate that as the problem.If the lock worked in the manual test but doesn't in an actual cycle then I suspect the control board is at fault.
A safety feature found on front load washing machine is the door switch and the door lock and strike. On most models, the door switch must be closed and the door lock must be activated before the washer will start. The switch is normally located in the door frame of the washing machine, but may also be part of the door lock assembly. Inspect the strike to make sure that it engages the door lock assembly and that the door remains closed. To check the door switch for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to disconnect the power and remove the front panel.
The lid switch on a top load washing machine is a safety device designed to prevent the motor circuit from operating when the lOn some models, the water inlet valve circuit is controlled as well. If the lid switch fails, the washer may not start. The lid switch is normally located beneath the main top with a projection on the lid or a pin attached to the lid that will actuate the switch when the lid is closed. Verify that the switch is being activated mechanically and that any levers or actuators are not damaged or sticking. If the switch is being activated but there is no power being supplied to the motor or water valve circuits, then the switch may be defective
The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in
God is good and that's why I give free advice.
SOURCE: lid lock stays on and constant beep on excellence washing machine
I am having the same issue and hope someone can post a solution. I have found a work around though. Mine does it when it is on a 'Regular' wash cycle, I found that if I put it on Permanent Press it works fine.
SOURCE: Machine won't start and clicks if turned on with door open
Ok,
this is the fix:
No
payload. Close the door. Press off, then press on. Then enter a program
starting by selecting the fabric and the others as usual. Do not press start,
instead press the slip button to advance the programme to the very last phase,
ie drain and empty. Then press start. It will perform this operation with no
load and pump out the “no water”. This part takes 5 minutes. After the 5 mins
the programme will end and the machine will beep annoyingly, but the computer
will be reset and you can clear the program and use the machine as normal.
Why?
I had
the same problem. The stupid computer inside remembers the program whilst it’s
off and unplugged. What has happened is you accidently pressed start and start
again to pause it in very quick succession. This confuses the computer and it
thinks that a program is in progress. This is why it wants to close the door. There
is no problem with the latch (unless it is a separate problem). You have to let
it play out a program to reset it, which is why you can play the very last “drain”
segment.
Question.
Presumably
there’s a way to reset the computer either by a secret button combo or shorting
out two pins from the computer box. I don’t know. If someone knows this please
tell me.
Good Luck!
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite 10.4708 front load washer won't start with new load
Uh oh! It did it again! This time I had to unplug 6 times for one cycle. Seems to be on the last 2 minutes most of the time. Today my husband is taking the control unit and looking for soldering problems. On Askmehelpdesk.com this man told of taking the bottom panel off and there is a little black latch thingy you pull to open the door lock manually. Also he said that the K2 and K4 relays are usually the problem if it isn't a soldering issue on the connectors. ( On the CCU);. He said one of them is usually burned and to clean it off and then switch it with the other one which carries less voltage, therefore doesn't burn. You can use a pencil eraser to do this. My husband told me they did this in the Army for MOose code contacts. He just told lme the soldeirng looks good on the connectors and is now working on the K2 and K4 relays. If you go to Askmehelpdesk.com/appliances you will see these tips are for the Whirlpool Duet whic is apparently the same machine as our Sears Kenmore H4's. Gosh, I hope this helps someone as it sure is not fun trying to track this problem down. I am glad you got Sears to come out. I will NEVER and I repeat NEVER buy from Sears again! Did I mention I wrote a letter months ago when I was having a hard time getting warranty work done.( Which I never did) that I had written to the pPesident, CFO and the Texas Attorney General for Consulmer Protection Division and never got a response from anyone?
SOURCE: My washer will not start. I press the start/pause
clean the drain filter located behind the front lower panell, its prob. holding excess h2o and wont let the water fill cycle activate. this happened to mine.
SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Washer will not start
It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
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