Where can I get it fixed?

change turn signal switch

This vanity mirror uses (2) 9-watt fluorescent bulbs, which should last for the life of the product. The light is manufactured with the old-fashion preheat ballast tubes. In order to light the bulbs you must hold the "ON" switch DOWN for 5 to ten seconds then the lights light and you let go of the switch.
As for changing the bulbs, I'm not familiar with this product, but if I had to guess, the clear plastic front covers over the bulbs probably just snap into place. Removing the covers should give access to the bulbs.

Most OE factory wiring is marginal as far as amperage carrying capability goes. They installed wiring fine for the stock bulbs and switch. A lot of vehicles send power to the lights..head and running...through the light switch on the dash. This causes it's own problems as switches are the weak link in the lighting system.

If you run 100watt bulbs you will need to power the bulbs via a 40 amp relay switched by the light switch so the switch does not carry the amperage load through it's contacts.

Doing so will reduce the voltage drop to the bulbs as a 2 volt drop will cause the bulbs to be only 75% as bright as they would be with the full 13.5 volt running voltage..

You run a fused wire from the battery or power distribution block to the relay that should be mounted within 6 inches of the closest h/l bulb. Then from the relay to the head light bulb/s. The front and rear running lamps can remain as factory as they are low amperage draw and original light switch will work because you now no longer run power to the h/lamps through the switch.

Search the www for schematics for relay switched lamps.


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Hi Roberta - you can view the manual for this fan here.

The lens snaps into position - there are no fasteners that need to be removed, etc. I believe that if you simply squeeze the long sides toward the center, it will release from the fixture.

When replacing the lamps, do not install a lamp greater than 100 watts in the main light socket or a 7 watt C-7 candelabra lamp in the night light socket.

I hope this helps & good luck!

The switch appears to be a standard rocker switch... Sometimes auto-parts stores have these or better hardware stores.

The switches normally have leads that push on and then snap into place held by plastic springy things.

You can also find replacements via DigiKey.com and Mouser.com

Search for "SWITCH ROCKER"

The blue collector bucket has a cut off switch at the bottom. Make sure it is snapped in place. The stainless bar that runs across the top also has a cut off safety switch. Make sure it too is snapped in place.

Someone stated this problem was a resistor located in the neutral side of power cord. That is where the problem is. However, it is actually a thermalink fuse rated at 10 amps. The heater pulls more than 12 amps. I wonder how many of these heaters have ended up in a landfill because of this manufacturing flaw!

Take the plastic cover off (some of them have screws or others they juts snaps off ,unscrew the old bulb and puy a new one(same watts)

HI,
Sure They Can. just ensure Red To + Positive. And Black To Negative. Or If Colours are Different determine which is + Positive.
these can be resoldered on, using a standard 15-25 watt soldering iron.

Mike @ compurepair.

It's probably relatively easy to change it. The problem may be actually GETTING the silly part.