Question about Frigidaire GLTF2940ES Front Load Washer
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i tell customers to remove the drain hose from the stand pipe and vacuum the water out of the washer from the drain hose but because of the pillow this might not work in your case. Now remove the two screws on the front lower panel and pull the panel
in side you will see the drain pump if you did not have a shop vac go to the auto parts store and buy a pair of radiator hose clamps and clamp the hose line as close to the washer as possible.(but put down some towels as water always stays there) then pull the tub to pump hose by depressing the squeeze clamp(now while your at the auto parts id get a screw clamp to replace the spring clamp it makes putting the hose back on a lot easier)pull the hose off.Then pull the pump to drain hose off .Remove the two 5/16 in screws securing the pump to the washer base.Unplug the connector and remove the pump inspect the pump for foreign objects,broken or stripped impeller blades . if the impeller are stripped you will have to replace the pump then form the front of the washer take a piece of water hose with one end cut off and run it down the pump to drain end of the drain and reassemble the unit
Posted on Jun 11, 2008
An e20 error is a slow drain. Basically you have a clogged pump. I just had to unclog one today! Unfortunately they are a little hard to get at. Usually they have a small sock or coin stuck in them. The pump is located in the right back. Good news, no cost to fix, bad it's just going to take some time.
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
your bearing is leaking into the machine
you can verify this by simply removing the back
if the side walls are covered in ablack spray pattern
sometimes it does not leak on both sides (in and out) but if it is leaking your machine will get progressive louder in both aggitate and spin
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
I have twice taken apart this front loader Frigidaire washer (also sold as Kenmore) to replace the rotted out aluminum spider arm supporting the spin-basket (which seems to universally fall apart within 5 years), and now I started observing the described black stain pattern on the clothes. As with the spider arm breakdown, this problem has nothing to do with water hardness, softeners, detergents, or dryers (I line-dry all my clothes), and everything to do with the poor quality design of this machine. I have not yet positively identified the cause of the black stains, but I suspect that the bearing seal is breaking down and in the process is releasing greasy particles that mix with the clothes and create the described black stain patterns. Unfortunately the repair would cost more than a new machine for most people, as the spider arm is probably just about gone by this stage. I am lucky to own another junk washer for spare parts and am able to fix it myself. For skilled do-it-yourself mechanics, it is possible to find a replacement seal and bearings on the internet, assuming the spider arm is new (over $200 part), or still in good shape.
Posted on Dec 19, 2010
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