Kenmore oasis wont fill drain - Kenmore 4.5 cu. ft. Oasis Canyon Top Load Washer

SOURCE: Kenmore Oasis HE won't drain

I had the exact same problem last night.

Here is what I did and it fixed it with NO PARTS or SERVICE CALL.

First, I took the drain hose and Blew through it with my mouth... I got air bubbles to come up in the wash bason, this told me the drain pump and hoses were not "Clogged"..

Next I took a shop vac and a 5 gallon bucket and used the vac to **** on the drain hose to start a siphon into the bucket...worked like a champ... I had it drained in less than 3 mins....

I Took the back cover off and then the drain pump off and took the 4-5 screws out of the mounting bracket and took the pump cover off.

What i found when I did this was that there was a VERY SMALL FLAT ROCK stuck between the impellor and the pump casing.

WIth a small screw driver I flicked out the rock and the impellor was free again... HOWEVER, When you do this, the impellor will turn half way and stop... half way and stop, half way and stop...etc.........IT WILL NOT SPIN FREELY like a top. When the motor is still attached to the pump, the armiture in the motor still gives reisitance to the impellor...This I PRESUME this to be normal..

I ended up putting it ALL back together except the back cover to test it...I turned it to a wash cycle and let it run for a few mins. Then i hit stop twice to cancel that wash request. Then i started a second wash cycle and the drain pump kicked right on to drain the water left in the basin from the first test wash..... So far she's purring like a kitten..... Fingers Crossed of course...

SOURCE: my kenmore elite oasis runs fine but wont go through spin cycle

Try replacing the motor coupler between the motor and pump three small pieces about 18.00 dollars at sears parts store.

SOURCE: my kenmore oasis he is flashing f51 and it wont drain. help!!!!

The F51 fault code on these types of washers indicates that the machine control board detects an RPS (Rotor Position Sensor) failure. This sensor is on the motor at the bottom of the washer.
Here is the troubleshooting for the F51 fault code:

• Do not overload the washer. Overloading can cause this fault code.
• Check underneath the washer for any clothes or toys that could be under the washer and obstructing the motor from turning freely. This can occur because there is not a cover on the bottom of the Washer.
• Using too little water by choosing the wrong cycle for the type of load being washed can cause this fault code.
• Make sure that your drain hose is properly installed per your installation instructions. Siphoning of fill water out of the washer can cause tub resistance and will result in this fault code.
• Lift the lid and reach in and make sure that the basket turns freely. If not, you could have garments stuck between the two baskets or a problem with the basket hub. Any abnormal resistance to tub movement can cause this fault.
• Unplug the washer. Make sure that both the Control Board Connectors P5 (Motor Wires, red, blue and yellow), and the P10 (RPM Sensor Wires, 7 brown wires) are securely plugged into the Control Board.
• Remove the (P5) Motor Connector from the Control Board and take a resistance reading between the 3 combinations of motor wires (red/blue, red/yellow and blue/yellow). It should read around 32 ohms on the Motor Windings between any of the 3 pins on the harness. NOTE: If you do not get the proper resistance reading on the motor harness at the board, check the reading at the motor end. If you get a good reading replace the upper or Lower Harness whichever is defective. If the reading is still bad when checked directly off of the motor, then you will need to replace the motor. (See notes below for motor access.)
• Unplug the P10 connector and take a resistance reading between the two outside pins (1 and 7). It should read between 600 and 21.6K ohms. *NOTE: (If it reads open you will need to pull the Rotor and Stator so you can check it right at the RPS Sensor. If it reads good at the sensor replace the Lower, or Upper Harness whichever is open).
• To access the motor and RPS sensor, lean the washer back against the wall. Secure the washer with blocks if needed. Remove the rotor (1-bolt), and the stator (4-bolts). When you pull the rotor off, check to make sure that the thin plastic beads that run between each magnet on the rotor is intact and in place. This could cause an F51 code as it will no longer separate the poles of the magnet for the sensor to read them properly.
• Check your wiring connections on the motor and the RPS sensor. Unplug and then plug the wiring harness connections back in on these components 5 or 6 times. This will normally scrape through any possible corrosion or deposits on the connections. Tug slightly on the connections when they are inserted for the final time to make sure that they are secure.
• Reassemble the washer .

SOURCE: my kenmore elite oasis he wont drain or spin

"F21" (AKA SD) is a Long (SLOW) Drain error (LD). If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a "SUDS" error may also be displayed. This may be an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:


1.First, attempt to unplug the washer for at LEAST 30 minutes to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches with the unit. If the error code returns, proceed to step 2.
2.Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
3.Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
4.Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.
To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump.

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SOURCE: Kenmore Oasis HE Canyon Quiet Pak4. Laundry is

There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




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