Does the ge model dblr333e have a fuse inside and high heat stopped working

one of the internal door switches, the high voltage circuitry or the circut board may have a problem to resolve this you need a qualified appliance technician

Check the internal ceramic fuse on the circuit board. Sometimes one section will work while another won't. I'm not sure if this model has a rear mounted thermal fuse, but the models with the inline thermal fuse will cause a similar issue.

Before you work on it, see these links:

http://031d26d.namesecurehost.com/mwd/safety.txt http://031d26d.namesecurehost.com/mwd/disassembly.txt

If the turntable, inside light, and internal cooling fan all work when you start the cook cycle, then that would probably rule out door switches. If not, then checking door switches is in order.

We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are operating here.

If it's louder than usual, it may be a shorted high voltage diode (economical), or a bad magnetron or high voltage transformer (not economical on a counter top model.

If it's quieter than usual, it may be a failed cook relay or connection on the controller.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The magnetron may have either failed or is not being supplied with the extremely high voltage required to run it.
Make sure the !!!!capacitor is discharged!!!!! before attempting any sort of repair.
Check the diode with either an AVO model 8 on high resistance range for short circuit, the feed fuse on the primary of the high voltage transformer and then finally, the magnetron is best checked by substitution.
Hope that helps.

Always list the model number as well as the brand name since there may be a tech familiar with problems related to specific models.
'Generic' answer: There may be more than one fuse in your unit, one for the electronics and a separate one for the magnetron power supply. These are normally only accessible after removing the housing from the unit; look for a fuse with a rating of 10 Amperes or higher.

The most likely thing is the magnetron has 'died' but there is a high voltage fuse between the capacitor and the magnetron which may blow. Either way, repairs to microwaves are dangerous and should only be undertaken by a qualified repairer. PS I have seen a mouse cause this problem!

You have not mentioned the make and model. Any way you can check the AC fuse on the power board inside the oven. If it is blown off you can replace it by a similar one, around 10amps fuse.

If it is working but not heating, then test the high voltage capacitor,the rectifier diode.or the magnetron. If all this are fine, test the control board.

The diodeand capacitors can be tested. The capacitor must be allowed discharge before testing, or you risk to get electrocuted, evenif power is off.Capacitors can get discharged by shorting their two contacts.
Before replacing the magnetron test also the control board.
Replace the magnetron if the checks and all of the high voltage component tests are good, but the unit still does not heat.



All locations, and description of this parts can be located using the diagram here: Counter top.

Parts must be tested to find out what is wrong.

Remember that microwaves are potentially dangerous devices if not repaired properly, the job must be done by a competent person.
A microwave energy leakage test must always be performed when the oven is serviced for any reason.

Regarding parts, contact the seller here to purchase parts.

You can also order from MicrowaveSvc , they also provide parts.

one of the internal door switches, the high voltage circuitry or the circut board may have a problem to resolve this you need a qualified appliance technician