It is the Whirlpool Heavy Duty, Extra Large Cap Plus Model LXR9245EZ1 Top loader washer.
The water pressure level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill. To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level switch may be defective.
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED).
The other item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board.
Washer fills with water then drains:
The critical question is. Is the water is just running down the drain but the pump isn't running. If it is being pumped out, and you can hear the pump running just the same as when it's emptying prior to spin then it could be aborting the wash because it is, or it thinks it's overheating. ( due to defective water temperature switch)
If the pump is failing to shut off then there is something wrong with the electronics. If your washer is a mechanical timer controlled device then you may have a sticking switch (which may explain if switching cycles does something for you). But if you have an electronic timer then you may be experiencing a board failure, where a cycle is being commanded when it is not intended to by design.
If water isn't being pumped out, but just draining away all the time, the washer will keep detecting there isn't enough water inside and top up with more.
Modern washing machines should be sophisticated enough to realize something's wrong and abort with an error, but if not, it may continue washing or rinsing for a short while before losing enough water to trigger more coming in again. It can get stuck on this cycle indefinitely and it's called siphoning.
Siphoning occurs when the end of the drain hose is lower than the level of the water inside the washing machine.
Try raising the hose and see what happens.
Also the drain hose should have some type of air gap where it fits into the stand pipe. It should not have an air tight fit.
Again Either it's siphoning down the drain due to an issue with the plumbing, it's overfilling, or also if it ( THE WATER) overheats then in some machines the software will employ a fill and drain tactic to cool down the water. The important thing is to work out which of these different faults is causing the problem by careful observation.
Other switch's to check would be the water inlet valve and the water pressure switch with a multi meter for continuity or OHMS.
SOURCE: Washer not spinning/agitat
This problem is usually attributed to a broken motor coupling. The following link provides step-by-step instructions on how to replace one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385252-replacing_motor_coupling_whirlpool_top
The motor coupling is a small 3-piece component that is installed behind the drive motor and couples it to the transmission. It is common for these small couplers to break as they wear out. The key symptom in determining the cause is the fact the washer will not agitate, but still drains. The reason is because your drain pump is mounted on the front of the drive motor and will still run as long as the drive motor is running. The part number is provided in the link I gave you. A replacement coupler can be purchased at searspartsdirect.com, appliancepartspros.com, pcappliancerepair.com or repairclinic.com. All these sites offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price. Make sure you "Search by Part Number" when looking up the part. This shouldn't cost more than $20. If you do not wish to order on line, take the part number I provided and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. This is a common item they should have in their inventory.
If you have questions along the way, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
SOURCE: Whirlpool top loader washing machine - agitator does not turn
If it does not drain, I'd check the water pump first (for an obstruction - I found a sock in my pump and that fixed my problem) ... see this video - the top is getting to the WM drive shaft (transmission), but it shows you how to remove the pump first: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLPGs2UMUJc&feature=related
If it does drain ... Is it just the TOP part of the agitator not working, or the whole thing (agitator is in 2 parts)? If just the TOP, you probably just need new "dogs" (agitator dogs). Check this out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5wIN1J70-Y ... it shows you what to do.
If it is the whole agitator that is stuck, that video will show you how to remove it (remove a single bolt) and you can see if there is an obstruction keep the agitator from moving.
If there's no obstruction or the water pump isn't stuck, you might be looking at a new drive/transmission = expensive. Good luck
SOURCE: Whirlpool Ultimate Care Heavy Duty Washer will not spin
It sounds like you have a broken motor coupling. This is a very inexpensive and simple repair.
If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385252-replacing_motor_coupling_whirlpool_top
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.
SOURCE: I have a whirlpool heavy duty extra large plus - no spin cycle.
The most common cause of the symptoms you describe is a lid switch malfunction. Symptoms include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping after the wash cycle, failing to advance to the rinse cycle and no draining.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com
The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare.
If you have questions, need additional assistance, please post back with your model number (located on a nameplate along the wash tub opening under the washer lid), so I can provide you with better assistance. I hope this helps you.
74 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×