Works fine during wash cycles. It's not the teeth in the lower agitator nor the dogs.
No spin, try these:
Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.
Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.
Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)
Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven.
On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.
LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights.
THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.
SOURCE: Grinding noise from hell - no spin, no agitation (except my own!).
Please see the following link for all possible troubleshooting tips:
http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_11_1.asp#Level1_3
Hope that helps! Should you have any further questions,please feel free to post them here.
P.S. - If you find that the solution/answerI provided led you to, or resulted in a fix, please close the ticket with a FixYa!rating. I would be very grateful for your show of appreciation.
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Cheers!
IrishDruid
SOURCE: screeching noise in maytag topload washer
The following link explains the problem you are having with your Maytag:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r387833-maytag_washer_squeaking_problem
It is common for the brakes on Maytag top loaders to wear and make noise, as well, as the snubber. There is a helpful tip that you can try to quieten the noise if it is the snubber. DO NOT oil it, or lubricate with any petroleum based products! This will ruin the unit and actually make the problem worse. NOTE: If the snubber is excessively worn, it was also cause vibration on the spin cycle.
If the brakes are worn, however, you can put a light film of oil on the brake pad. It is common for the pad to collect moisture in humid and damp climates and start to squeak against the brake stator. The brake pad consists of a rotor with a leather edge (pad). The leather can absorb moisture and begin to squeak against the brake stator. Oiling it slightly will get rid of the noise.
Confused? If you have questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information useful.
NOTE: There is a follow-up comment at the bottom of the link I provided from another user. The method this person used to release the tension on the brake can save you from having to purchase the brake release tool.
SOURCE: Grinding sound during agitation cycle on my Maytag Performa
Its probably you stator plate and rotor. But you need special tools for this repair. There a spring that is under 200 pounds of pressure and if you take the screws off that hold the plate its going to fly into you face if your dont use the special tools to depress the spring. Is it more of a clanking kinda of noise? DOes it olnly happen with heavy loads? Try this out. Fill the washer with water only. and get it into a wash cycle with water only. If there is no noise then put in like a load of towels. A heavy load. Now if you hear the noise now then its for sure you stator plate and rotor..hope this helps, but like i said you need those special tools to do this repair or injury can result from the spring part.
SOURCE: maytag PAV2300AWW Washer makes grinding sound when agitating
Sounds like it is the bearing on the water pump. Take off back plate and replace and remove 3 screws and two hoses (the one hose is a waste line so make sure you have a bucket to empty our waste water) after removing these remove belt on bottom of pump.
SOURCE: I have a Kenmore 90 series Model # 110.28902790,
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.28902790
Please see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load, direct drive washers.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
Also see the Whirlpool Parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same parts.
The problem points to a worn Agitate Cam.
Whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.
The cam is a two piece plastic part that lifts a gear above the main agitate assembly in the transmission so that the agitator doesn't turn during the spin cycle.
We had the same problem. The cams had worn enough that they weren't lifting the gear (less than 1/16").
They aren't expensive at all but do require pulling the transmission.
See the following for a description of how to remove the transmission.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
You don't have to remove the tub!!
Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.
Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.
Remove the transmission cover.
Pull off the spin pinion.
Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.
The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.
Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.
Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.
The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)
It may seem like a difficult job but it really isn't. It is a bet messy but it's a lot less expensive than a $170 transmission.
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