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(1) The tub bearing is mounted in the middle of the outer tub. The tub bearing helps to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. Replacing the tub bearing is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. If the tub bearing is defective, i recommend replacing both the outer tub and bearing.
Rear Tub
Bearing Replacement (Part 1 of 3)
This advice is for replacing the rear wash tub shell of most
Kenmore Elite HE model FRONT
LOADERS, along with Whirlpool Duet, and some Frigidaire FRONT
LOADER models.This is a repair that
would be rated as difficult due to the extensive disassembly and
reassembly of components.
The requirement to replace the rear wash tub shell is
usually attributed to the rear tub bearing failure in which the bearings are
molded into the tub and cannot be replaced otherwise.In some situations the replacement of the
inner spinner basket (stainless steel tub) may also be required due to the
corrosion and breakage of the spider arms in the back of the basket that
support the basket.
SYMPTOMS:Washer exhibits excessively loud “rumbling” type noise during the spin
cycle, excessively vibrates, or won’t spin at all.
DETERMINING IF THE BEARING AND SPIN BASKET ARE BAD:
With the washer door open, place your hand inside the basket and push straight
up.If there is excessive play in the
tub (wobbles up and down) the bearing is probably bad.If the spinner basket scrapes against the
outer tub shell when you give it a spin, you will have to replace the inner
spin basket as well. Unfortunately, you cannot see the condition of spinner
basket supports until it is removed from the outer tub shells.In some cases, a brownish colored stain
my show up on clothing as the bearing seal has been breached and leaks into the
spinner basket.
Before starting this repair, make sure you read through all
instructions thoroughly and place the washer is in an area that gives you
plenty of space to work.
Pull the washer tub (see elsewhere on FixYa for step-by-steps), split the tub by removing the screws holding the two halves together, and remove the inner tub. Bend any tabs tighter that hold the fins on, and tighten any screws. While you have it apart, check for grease stains or other leakage on either side of the outer tub, and ensure the inner tub bearing is tight so that the inner tub shaft rotates smoothly and without oscillation. If there are stains or if the bearing is showing wear, replace that (back) half of the outer tub to replace the bearing (unless this is one of the few machines that allow you to replace only the bearing). You don't want to put all this back together, only to have to take it all apart again when the inner tub starts hammering on the inner tub because the bearing went south.
Motors have sealed bearings which it is cheaper to replace the motor. If you are hearing sound like this it may be your Tub bearing or one of the tub roller bearings these are like roller skate wheels they lay at each side under the dryers tub so it rolls smoothly and not many dryers use rear bearings anymore so look into the rollers and new tub seals or tub holder. The motors rarely fail in the bearing department and if they do a new motor is required.Remember to rate my solution and give testimonial it is how i earn my achievements Thanks in advance.
Did you replace the Clutch Pulley or a repair service? You are talking about the Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutch bearing in the white bearring plate correct?The First two digits of your serial number are 12 thru 17.What are the first two digits of your serial number? To replace the Tub Seal you need to remove the spinner assembly.That means you have to remove the outer tub.A bigger job but several on this forum have completed it including myself two weeks ago on a Series 10 FAV6800A. I will point you to a link most recently where a form member replaced Outer tub bearings on his Series 15.If your wash basket spins up to 850 rpm with no Outer Tub bearing noise I would just do a tub seal replacement this round.
It sounds like you may have to replace the Outer Tub to replace the Outer Tub bearing .....ain't that just peachy.....good job Maytag design team.
If you are the original owner I would press Maytag hard to replace the Outer Tub based on the Outer tub Bearing failure.Their warranty states third thru tenth year Drive Motor, Outer Tub and Sealed Transmission.I’m sure you will need to have a certified Maytag repair service tech certify the failure and fix action required. Why should an Outer Tub bearing replacement cost you $430. Another poor design issue of this machine.
My bearings went out too and I found this site http://www.neptunebearing.com/ Ordered the bearings and the Tony Tool. My son and I replaced the bearings in about 2 hours!
It is not a hard job to replace the tub. Just time consuming. I replaced the back portion of the tub where the bearing is. If the inner tub shaft has any wear on it , replace that as well. Otherwise youll have the same problem in a month. Its an easy fix if your patient. I paid about $130.00 for the rear portion of the tub. I'm not sure about the inner tub.
If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly and the outer shell with the tub bearing.
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