Question about Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE4t Front Load Washer
Kenmore HE4t washer panel lights up but does not start. There is no error displayed. I can choose any wash cycle. The light of the chosen cycle flashes and appropriate time for that cycle is displayed. But when I hit the start button, nothing happens. I have run the full diagnostic cycle and there is no error. During the diagnostic cycle the front door locks, water fills up, the drum turns the way its supposed to, water drains and the machine goes through the final spin without a problem. Please help. Thanks, Harmi.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Had this problem on our Kenmore machine.
This is what done.
1. Unplug the washer
2. Take of the toe panel in the front by removing the three screws.
3. Get a bunch of towels (I mean a bunch!!!)
4. The pump is in the center, and it has a plastic grip handle that one can unscrew to remove the filter. As you unscrew it, LOTS of water will come out. Be ready with the towels. A cookie sheet helps to collect the water too.
5. Clean the filter assembly.
6. If one wishes to check the inlet of the pump, remove the back panel, about 12 screws. (Note, the following works for replace the pump as well)
7. Remove the large bellow from the bottom of the tub that goets to inlet of the pump by removing the clamp
9. Lift up on the plastic cover that covers the wires that power the pump. There may be a small plastic catch that is lifted up as to allow the connector to become free.
8. Remove the Torx screw that holds that is the center just under the filter screen.
9. Pull the pump forward.
10. Unclamp the pump outlet hose.
11. Remove pump
12. Unclamp the large bellow on the pumps inlet and inspect for debris.
13. Clean pump and fitler w/o getting water on the pump.
14. Install in reverse order. Remember, it is much easire to put the inlet bellow and outlet hose on the pump before you put into the washer
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
Check the lid switch. Through out time the lid switch housing can come apart from years of heat and cold. When I checked mine, I found the glue deterriated and the housing came apart. What I did to fix it is I zipped tied the housing together and did a functional check and it worked.
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
if yours is the same, the drain is hidden behind the lower access panel on the front (how convenient, huh?). I don't understand why they didn't just make a recess hole for it. I've just left one screw loose in the center and it kinda "compression" fits. We clean this out regularly, as my wife and family don't check pockets well. :)
Posted on Apr 02, 2010
1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.
2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.
3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.
WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.
4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.
There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.
5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.
WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.
Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.
6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.
If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.
Replace any valves that are cracked.
Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.
If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.
Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.
The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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