Whoa. Classic stuff here and a definitely dying art.
The true scope of your question is above what you're gonna get from this forum. While I am familiar with and have done carb adjustments each carb is different. Too, this being 1979, this was in the early days of emissions ....there are going to be adjustments unique to maintaining low emissions ...at least for 1979 standards.
To do this right you will need to lay hands on a "Dwell/Tachometer". You may need some feeler gauges and or properly sized drill bits. You will also need a copy of a service manual for your 310 in order to make sure you have instructions and specs on *all* the adjustments. The manual will also show you what tools you'll need (like feeler gauges and drill sizes ...they are often used to adjust a choke pull-off to get the proper opening). You may have to bend linkages and/or tabs to adjust settings. You might be lucky and find a copy of one online for free (usually a .pdf). Do some online research.
A BIG concern: if this carb is the original unit there is a *very* good chance it has worn out. What wears out on a 35 year old carb? The bushing areas the throttle plate pivots in. These "bushings" are simply holes machined in the main casting of the carb ...the throttle body ...and the shaft of the throttle plate rotates in these bushing areas. Over time, after thousands (millions?) of small back and forth motions of the throttle plate shaft aided and abetted by the tension of the return spring, the bushing areas wear and get ever so larger. As the bushing areas get larger they allow play to develop but more importantly they allow excessive amounts of uncontrolled air into the carb. And this will royally mess up the functioning of the carb by creating an overly lean fuel mixture. It will also make it all but *impossible* to correctly adjust the carb. Before you go off spending time and effort trying to get this engine to run right, you need to evaluate the throttle plate bushings. You can remove the carb or do this with it mounted on the engine. Remove the throttle linkage and any return springs. If there is a choke coil (spring) disconnect it's linkage. You want nothing to put tension on the throttle. Usually the throttle cable connects to some type of arm connected directly to the throttle plate. While holding the arm try to move it back and forth and in and out ...if there is any discernable movement then you have worn bushings. A new or properly rebushed carb will have no discernable movement or just the absolute *slightest* when you do this.
If the bushings are worn then you either purchase a rebuilt carb with new bushings or, better, have the original carb "re-bushed" by a carb shop specializing in this procedure. What's normally done is the carb is disassembled, the bushing areas are re-drilled larger and bronze bushings are pressed in. Cost of this service varies and it may include checking the mounting flange for trueness and/or a rebuild.
http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/lookup.aspx?partnum=DAT105
Unless you have some desire to keep this 310 as original as possible and given the cost of a rebuilt/re-bushed carb, I would take the rebuilt route.
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