It stopped midway through the cycle. I drained it down and checked the filter and the pump X thing at the back and it turned freely. It worked then stopped, I think it got to the same water level, now it hums when turned on and stops
SOURCE: Asko W6461 - will not drain
is the pump comming on look inside the pump with a tourch there may be somthing stuck behind the impeller
SOURCE: Drain pump removal on Zanussi FJR1254 Washing Machine
not easy.suggest you disconnect pump and power up independently as an easy way to check if it runs
easiest way to remove pump - and its awkward - is to undo the 3 screws holding the pump to its housing
SOURCE: Cycle starts, continual humming, no wash, no movement, just humming noises. Have to stop the wash.
If it hums from start, and it is filling fine from inlet valve, then the problem is usually timer control board or motor control unit board/motor failure.
If it gets stuck on filling forever, check also the pressure switch.
Parts must be tested before replacement.
Enter the model number on one of two websites below to get parts and diagrams for your appliance:
Appliance Parts From PartSelect
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SOURCE: ran through cycles fine untill it got to spin
The pump has either blocked or failed. The humming noise strongly suggests a blocked pump, but if left that way for too long the pump motor burns out.
I'm unfamiliar with your machine as it's not sold on my side of the Atlantic so can only provide a generic answer, but most front loading machines have a user-accessible pump located behind an access panel at the lower front of the machine.
Turn the machine off at the main power socket and open the access panel. The pump is usually hidden behind a circular access about 3 or 4" in diameter, but if you open it then the water in the machine will gush out. Many machines incorporate a small drainage tube next to the circular access, you pull it out and place the end into a large bowl and then remove the plug on the end to drain down. Once the water is drained , replace the bung in the tube and re-stow it as you found it. Now you can open the circular access, but still expect some water to escape so lay a few dirty towels on the floor.
The circular access door usually unscrews counter-clockwise and attached to the rear of it is often a debris trap. Clean the trap and then clear any debris from the pump which will now be visible. Most of the time the blockage will be socks, tights or underwear. Once you're sure that it's all clear, check the pump impeller vanes (should be visible) to ensure that they're not damaged and try turning the impeller by hand (should be easy if the pump is now OK). Now just refit everything and turn the machine back on.
If the symptoms continue, or if there is no access door to the pump, then you'll need assistance. Turn the machine off again, and then pull it forwards a couple of feet. Tilt the machine backwards and securely prop it up so that there's no risk of it falling down nor of sliding further back or forward. If you have already tried the first repair method then you'll already know where the pump is located, but if not then it's easy to identify. There will be two tubes connected: the outlet goes out of the rear of the machine to the drain and the inlet is usually a flexible rubber bellows type of tube and goes from the pump to the drum. Give the second tube a good squeeze all along its length to feel for any obstructions. If there are any then disconnect the tube from the top of the pump and remove the blockage (if the machine is still full of water then get ready with a large bucket and expect to get wet). The hose clip will usually be a spring clip which you'll need pliers to remove and refit: squeeze the tangs together to loosen the clip and release them to tighten it. If there are no blockages then check the outlet tube. As it's normally of semi rigid flexible plastic it's harder to find blockages in, so I tend to just remove the end from the pump and poke inside with a piece of coathanger wire.
If after all this you find nothing, then the the pump is the chief suspect. On European machines it's usually an integrated motor and pump assembly which has to be replaced as a single unit, but on the few American and Australian models I've repaired the pump and motor may be separate and connected via a flexible driveshaft. If the latter, disconnect the shaft and temporarily reconnect the power supply. If the motor now runs the pump needs replacing and if not it's the motor.
I hope this has been of assistance to you and that you manage to quickly fix your problem.
SOURCE: Error code E04? Doesn't drain or spin. Machine
SEIMENS FRONT LOADER ULTRA SENSE DRAINING PROBLEM On my SEIMENS washer, which is about the same as BOSCH, the drain problem seems to be usually a small sock jammed in the intake of the drain pump, or possibly in a hose before the pump. I found a quarter and a couple of staples in the attached settlement area where junk settles to avoid jamming the pump. Also a lot of dirt. On the lower front under the door, while facing the washer, is a round plate with a little hole in it. Put something sturdy, a little bigger than a toothpick in there, and rotate the plate about a 16th of a turn, maybe a little more, and it comes off. Take duct tape or similar and tape up the edges of the hole and a nearly vertical bar in the hold on the left side, because the edges will cut your hand, like they did mine. Inside the hole you will see a black turn knob inside. Turn it left very slowly, only after you figure out where the water will go, probably a small bucket or two of it. I used a 4" funnel which got most of it, I think, funneling into the bucket. Maybe you can be more creative, but it is what was at hand. Still got water on the floor out of the garage into the street. Turn left slowly, so it doesn't dump water outside of the funnel. You will see the water is brown, silt, dirt and stuff. If you get a lot of water out, that means the blockage is probably at the pump. If you don't get water out, the blockage is probably in the hoses from the washer, which means you need to undo hose clamps going into the pump and clear the blockage. That is harder. Most likely it is something in the pump area itself. After most or all of the water is gone, and it doesn't seem to unscrew any more, tug on it and it will come out exposing the pump and probably the sock. Remove the sock, and check the pump impellors to make sure they are intact. If gone, that means a new impellor and probably a pump. Then move the impellor, it should click as it moves and stop. If it does, you have found the problem. Sock blocking the outlet. Carefully clean out the **** inside the pump settlement area. If you leave any of the sandy gritty clumpy stuff it can ruin your pump. Also clean the plastic thingy you pulled out, and make sure the threads and sealing surfaces are clean there too. Then screw it back in firmly, and start the washer, without clothes. I would just fill it up, starting the cycle, until it starts to agitate, then go to the drain position With luck, it will now drain. . This will save you a service call for something easy to fix yourself.
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