Are you tech savvy?...I can give you some voltages to test if you're able to do that, if you aren't then you have 2 choices, take it somewhere to be serviced but expect to pay between 75 and 100 dollars an hr for tech time plus parts or replace the set with a new one.
SOURCE: intermittant remote
yes they do go bad. try cleaning the inside of the remote and check for a bad solder connection with-in the remote. the key pad can get dirty from your handling maybe a good cleaning but do not scrub it just lightly touch the pad with cue tip and alcohol
SOURCE: Power light flashing/ no picture
I have the same problem. The only way to get the TV to come on is to unplug it, but once you get it back on it turns itself off again in a few minutes.
SOURCE: My tv Wont Turn On
My 32" hyundai LCD TV will not turn on. The power lead is ok the on / off switch on the side turns the red stand by light on and off. I am unable to get the LCD TV off stand by. I have tried the the stand by button and this does not do anything. Can anybody help.
SOURCE: tv wont turn on
I had the same problem and took it apart. Before the repair there was no "click" when I pushed the button, a clue to the problem. The on-off button on the front pushes a weakly made angle piece of plastic inside which had broken. The plastic piece in turn is supposed to push an internal switch which is offset to one side.
I used epoxy (Araldite) to repair the broken plastic angle piece, but it still looks weak to me so I switch the tv off at the wall and leave the on-off button alone (though it does work now).
Opening the case requires some knowledge and care, and can be dangerous. It may void the warranty so be careful or give it to a qualified repair person.
Hope this helps!
SOURCE: Samsung FPT 5084X won't turn on
Sorry, but welcome to the world of highly efficient, component-critical switching power supplies.
These are all of those things and the failure often is related to a specific type of component, an electrolytic capacitor.
These are chemical devices and cheap ones fail easily, the most expensive take little longer but the primary value shrinks while the losses climb until the part cannot do what it should any more.
The main power supply is probably at
fault and without some technical background and a couple of test instruments,
you will not be able to do the repair yourself.
What you can do though is; unplug the set, let it
stand overnight or at least several hours, remove the back panel and look for a
separate board with mostly larger components on it; it will have a ferrite core
(no laminations as with a line-frequency part) transformer on it and several
larger capacitors which are cylindrical and mounted vertically to the board.
Before touching anything inside, especially on
that board, allow several hours to be safe since the larger capacitors can hold
a painful voltage charge for some hours.
If you see signs of overheating such as
discoloration of the board material, it may not be repairable but if you can
find a part number on the board, you might be able to buy the power supply and
install it yourself but it will likely have the same problem eventually unless
they have altered the design.
If there are no signs of heat damage to the board,
there may be companies offering to repair it as a subassembly instead of
repairing the whole set which could be much more expensive.
If you choose to replace or have it done, the
power supply still may not be at fault since most are capable
of switching on and off if a downstream problem is causing an overload.
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