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it can be done as most what is termed "marble" products is polished concrete
talk with a masonry business as to how it is done but from what I have seen it will be a lot of "elbow" work with out power tools
is it bolted to a sleeve that was poured into the concrete? if it is, my suggestion would be to put some PB Blaster (i noticed your accent, so i will say this is an american answering. don't know if they have that in your country.) or other rust removing lubricant (WD-40, 3 n 1 oil) and lubricate it. it is probably rusted in the sleeve, and that would get the pole out. the sleeve would still be there though.
i would spray a solvent all around the back of the drum , where it is held on, use possibly a rust remover, or rust loosener spray, all the way around , then take a 3- 4 lb hammer and tap all of the way around it to try and free it up, if that doesn't work , then you could try a wheel drum puller, but take it slow while trying to remove it, hope that this has been very helpful to you.
Unhook the master link and lay the chain in the concrete. Next, hold one end to the concrete and sort of push the chain towards the stationary end. The object is to push the chain together as opposed to stretching it apart. Mark the concrete at the location of the shortened end. Now again hold the stationary end firm and this time stretch the chain to its' fullest length. Mark the concrete again at the end of the stretched chain. If the distance between the marks is over one inch the chain should be replaced.
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Look at the teeth of both sprockets. Are the teeth rounded on the end or are the teeth forming a pointed looking end? If rounded, then the sprocket is good. If pointed, then the sprocket is bad.
Bad sprockets can ruin a good chain. The exception to the one inch rule is a chain that is rusted and no longer limber. Replace a rusted chain. Remember, always install the master link clip with the blunt end facing the direction of chain travel.
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