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Yours is a older and tired puppy. You already know it's only 17" so "details" are SO easy to miss... even WHEN it's working!
(I will whisper to you that it MAY be your power supply failing?)
(*whispers) ... eBay 232038053660 $11.99 USA seller)
Soooo... since money IS a issue (for most of us)... consider this: Go to GOOGLE and search for: "Craigslist North Carolina"
Find the city nearest to you and HUNT ~ and HUNT for the best used 21" (or so) monitor you can afford. OF COURSE you will INSIST that they "demo" monitor BEFORE you pass the bux.
WHY invest in repairs or diagnostics for a broken monitor your TECH may not be able to get parts for?? IF it can be repaired, at what price for labor+parts and WHAT will fail again?
Beth, I found a past FIXYA Link that HAS your manual WITH a "Troubleshooting" section!
The other Link describes problems others have had with your same model...
It sounds like you're not in the right input source (mode) or you have a external source selected. I show your unit as a 1995 model and so check your Tape 1, Tape 2 selection buttons. These "Tape" selection button get dirty contacts that will kill the audio. To clean, with the volume low, press them on and off around 20 times each. This works the contacts back-n-forth and will help clean them.
The errant switch, control or condition may change and you will suddenly release the amp's full power and possibly destroying your speakers. If a signal isn't audible at 1/2 volume it's probably not there.
Carefully examine the front panel for clues like a misplaced Mute or Tape Monitor control or Multichannel Analog Input selected.
There is a good chance that a common control may have developed a high-resistance or 'dead' spot through defect or idleness and is causing your symptom. Turn the POWER OFF and operate every control throughout its range a number of times, especially rarely-used ones like Tape Monitors and the Mute control.
Turn the volume to something reasonable and see if that helped.
The door itself might be too "hot". Meaning the springs might bee too wound up or stretched out at the beginning of the cycle. The belt drive openers actually have a spring on the trolley to take up any slack vibration to legnthen the life of the motor and drive gear so this is not really a big deal unless it is severe. If it is I would hire a pro as the springs are the most dangerous part of a door and should be worked on by a qualified technician. Thanks BB
The opener is having a hard time operating the door. It sounds like the door is out of balance. The door should stay all the way up at half down and all the way down. You should be able to raise and lower the door by hand EASILY. The opener is only meant to lift10-15 lbs. Thanks BB
Replaced all 470mf caps still "No Joy" ! Question: There is a very large Capacitor rating 400V that has brown stuff on its side where it was folded down onto the board! Is this some type of adhesive or has this capacitor blown! Might sound like a really stupid question , but never took electronics courses just learned a few things from my best friends dad
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