Question about Haier 3.5 cu. ft. Chest Freezer HNCM035E

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Haier troubleshooting My freezer will get cold but runs until the high temp sensor shuts it down even if the thermostat is turned all the way down

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Does it have cooling coils in the back... or underneath... that might need to be cleaned and vacuumed out???. That is a common problem.. Another thing, check to see if the door is sealing properly.. The next suspect might be the temperature adjustment mechanism that you've been adjusting..

Posted on Aug 07, 2014

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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

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Temperature swing specification in a chest freezer.


It depends on the control that your freezer utilizes.

If your temp control dial has the numbers 0-9 or 1-9, then you have whats commonly known as a coil temp sensor.


Unlike an air temp contol that measure the air temp inside the freezer and comes on and off with a 3-5° swing, the coil temp sensor runs a little bit different.

With a coil temp control or sensor, the temp control has a capillary tube and bulb that is inserted into the coil either at on of the ends down a guidetube or just into the center of the radiator type fins. This temp control measures the temperature of the coil, and not the temperature of the air inside the freezer. When the unit runs, the coils typically gets 20° colder than the air temp. And when the control satisfies (shuts off), it will not call for cooling again until the sensing bulb has reached the cut-in point which is typically well above design box temp.


So, to quickly answer your question, yes it is possible to have a 25° temp swing and not have anything really wrong with the unit. That is how its been designed to operate and that is how it will operate. Your only option (although not recommended) is to replace the coil temp sensor with and air temp control. That will give you more consistent temps.


Also, when taking temp of a freezer with a coil temp sensor, be sure to temp the product in the freezer and not the air temperature.

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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

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