Maytag Bravos Washing Machine Error Code F1 - Maytag Washing Machines

SOURCE: F1 error code

This was copied from a website called WORLD OF WASHERS....I just copied the whole paragraph......sounds like some $$$
Let me know if this helps.......mtg

I am new to this online blog stuff, so I figured an email would be best. I own a Kenmore Elite Oasis washer Model #110.27042602. Everytime we try to use the washer we get error code F1 flashing. This happens withins seconds of the machine first starting to fill and about ten times thereafter until enough water gets into the tub for balance, I assume. We have started pouring about 2 gallons of water onto the clothes in the tub by hand before starting the machine which usually works. About half the time the machine stops again between wash and rinse cycle as it starts to fill with water again.

In my online research, I guess its good we don't have error code F51, but this is a pain and 1 year warranty has passed. It appears I may need to get a new Machine Motor Control Assembly. Any thoughts????

Thank you,
Darrell S.

Darrell,

I'm probably not going to tell you anything you don't already know. You know you may have to replace the motor control assembly, so you have done your due diligence.

I found a thread related to your problem at the "Samurai Appliance Repair Forums" at ApplianceGuru.com. That link will take you to the discussion, in case you haven't already read it. The poster described a situation identical to yours, and I have also read of this problem at other sites on the web.

Contained within that thread is a link to a Service Matters (Whirlpool Corp.) tech sheet related to the F1 error code. This is the document any qualified servicer will refer to when addressing your problem. Here is a link to that sheet in case you want to have it on hand in the event of a service call.

The tech sheet calls to replace the control, but only after three other tests have been conducted. Everything I have read indicates the control will be replaced the vast majority of the time. I am not a technician, but I would say there really is no way around that.

Please keep in mind that this sheet applies to specific models and serial numbers within the Whirlpool line. There may be a separate sheet for your washer, but I imagine the end result is the same.

The million dollar question is how much will such a repair cost. I am seeing prices ranging from $150 to $200 just for the part. With labor, you will probably have at least $300 invested in this repair. I would encourage you to contact Whirlpool at 866-769-7260. I have read instances of other owners receiving satisfactory service in out-of-warranty situations via this number. Whirlpool knows these washers are ****, so they no doubt have a scripted procedure in place to deal with these situations. Be firm, but also be polite. Maybe drop the word "recall" and see what happens.

SOURCE: maytag bravos top load washer error code F1

Well, you're not gonna like this, but here's the deal.

Remove the three screws on the rear of the control panel and lift it up. Disconnect the rubber hose on the right side of the gray control module and blow through it to make sure it is clear and not kinked. If this check is fine then your control module needs replaced.

Note that Maytag knows this is a fairly common problem. My washer failed 9 months out of warranty with this problem.

The only good news is that it is an easy, though expensive, replacement.

SOURCE: Any problems with Maytag Bravos mvwB750w?

you would be better off with a front load. they (bravos) dont sell all that well and probably wont be around too long

electronic & computer repair& servicre

• 12061 Answers
• Posted on Aug 19, 2010

SOURCE: The f1 code on the Maytag Bravos top loading

Please contact Maytag to inquire about the code F1. They should check the system and that that code is a courtesy repair and should be scheduled for a someone to come out to fix it. FREE
It is possible that the F1 code was caused by your laundry habits (detergent), but I think that is unlikely. Too many of these machines have problems with the F1 error code. There is a known problem with the Oasis / Cabrio / Bravos machines.

Kelly

• 3740 Answers
• Posted on Nov 21, 2010

SOURCE: My Maytag Bravos quiet series

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
My response is very long and will be in 2 parts this is PART 1

Here is what the service manual says about Ld:

"Ld" (Washer is taking too long to drain

water from the wash tub)

Check the following:

Is the drain hose kinked or clogged?

Is the drain hose installed properly? See

"Connect the Drain Hose," page 2-5. Press
PAUSE/CANCEL to clear display
Also:

Is the drain hose clogged, or the end of

the drain hose more than 96? (244 cm)

above the floor?
See "Drain System," page 2-3.
6. To remove the drain pump: (there are 2 pumps... the drain pump is on the left)

a) Loosen the clamps and pull the inlet

and outlet drain hoses off the pump.

Note that there is a tab on the outlet

connector that fits into a slot in the

hose.

b) Remove the three 5/16? hex-head

screws from the drain pump and remove
the pump from the tub.
Check the pump inlet and the tub outlet for obstructions.
Pump electrical winding resistance test:

-Disconnect the wire connector from the

drain pump terminals.

- Set the ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale.

- Touch the ohmmeter test leads to each

of the drain pump terminals. The meter
should indicate between 10.5 and 14 ?.

----Due to the design of the machine the 2 wires going to the drain pump have be notorous for backing out of the plastic connector. Check the connector of the pump for loose terminal connections. --

From the Ld troubleshooting steps / procedure:

Long Drain

Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on.

• Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged?

• Is the drain hose height greater than 96? ?

• Is the pressure hose connection from the tub to the machine/motor control pinched or plugged?
• Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.

TEST 7

TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation

Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate.

1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test

Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps

test.

2. Remove the console to access the machine/

motor control assembly. See Accessing

& Removing the Electronic Assemblies.

3. Visually check that the P4 connector is

inserted all the way into the machine/motor

control.

If visual check passes, go to step 4.

If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and

repeat step 1.

4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1.

If resistance values are good, go to step 7.

If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem

exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor

control and the motor. Go to step 5.

5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom

of the machine and the pumps. See
Figure 1, page 6-13.
6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and

take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram.

If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the

pump motor.

If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/

motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness.

If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check

the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump.

7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.

8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed:

Unplug the washer or disconnect power.Replace the machine/motor control assembly.
Perform the Manual: Pump test.