Thermostat reading AE low - LG LS-K2430HL Heat Cool Mini Split Air Conditioner

I have ran into this problem before. I have actually had low batteries I thought were good too ha! I have had to actually reset the stat to get the low battery to stop flashing. There are multiple ways to reset the thermostats, depending on model, but removing the batteries and waiting has worked, along with actually having a reset button somewhere on the stat. Hope this helps!

1) Cheapest and most reliable solution: Install tank-type electric water heater from local box store for $250. Get store coupons, offer 10% off store price. Repairs are made same day with generic off-the-shelf parts.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/How-to-install-electric-water-heater.pdf

2) Install grundfo water pressure boosting pump.
http://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how_to_increase_water_pressure_in_your_home
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-solder-pipes.html

3) Remove areators and low flow shower heads, Maintain unit as shown in product manual: Delime tankless unit yearly, Clean water filter monthly.

4) Call city and report low pressure and report issue as fire hazard, move to different apartment. Call apartment complex and ask why they didn't read flow requirements for tankless before installing tankless.

5) Call Bosch 866-330-2729 and complain that nobody read the flow requirement or tested local water flow before installing tankless.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Check coolant level may be low causing gauge to read up and down. If level is low it can read low when not touching the coolant temp sensor at low rpm, then when rpm increases coolant rushes up to the sensor making it read hot. If level is good than you may have had the thermostat stuck for a bit and should be replaced before it sticks for good.

If original problem was caused by sediment burning out lower element, did you clean sediment out of water heater when changing lower element?
Two element water heaters are 240V.
Thermostats cut power on one hot wire, but 240V circuit has 2 hot wires. So lower element has power at all times coming from the red wire.
1) Use ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> test each screw of lower element to bare metal part of water heater. Each screw should show 120V. If there is no power, then upper thermostat is defective, screw on upper thermostat is loose, or red wire between upper and lower parts of water heater is bad.
2) Remove wires from lower element. Use continuity tester or multimeter set to ohms <> test across both screws of element to see if power travels through element <> if element is bad, then continuity tester will not light up and multimeter will show no ohms. Put wires back on element after test.
3) Start with cold water in tank. Turn on water heater & upper element will turn on. Put ear on side of tank to hear if upper element is heating water. Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 240V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 0V.
Put ear on side of tank. When upper element turns off: Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 0V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 240V. If this test shows 0V and 0V, then upper thermostat is bad. If reading is correct, immediately move to next test.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Thermostats-numbered-divided-500.jpg
4) Turn temp on lower thermostat to 150. Using ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> Test across both screws of lower element. If there is no reading, and you know element is good from step 2, then lower thermostat is bad, or wire is bad between lower element and lower thermostat, or wire is bad between lower thermostat and top part of heater.
5) Test across both lower thermostat screws, should read 240V.If this test is good, it means wires are good. Put jumper wire across both screws of lower thermostat, and test lower element again. If element finally turns on with jumper wire, then lower thermostat is bad.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

If wire is bad between upper and lower parts of water heater, and water heater has tight-fitting 2" foam insulation, it usually indicates water heater replacement.

No you need to change your t,stat. Go to home depot or Lowes and get one easy to install Any problems please get back to me I will walk you thru. Rus

Check the following:

1. Low/No Refrigerant: If the evaporator is warm, the ampere reading is low (compare with motor specifications), pressure reading is low, and evaporator is warm, find any leak and repair, then recharge refrigerant. Use soap bubbles to find leaks.
2. Loose compression: If pressure reading is low, ampere reading is low and low side and high side have the same pressure, replace compressor and recharge refrigerant.
3. Oil in accumulator: If none of the above symptoms is present except that the evaporator is warm, Purge the system and remove oil then recharge the system (refrigerant).
4. Restricted drier or capillary tube:
   If the strainer drier is cold, replace strainer/drier. If no hissing of refrigerant into the evaporator, replace capillary tube. Replace refrigerant.
5. Thermostat; If the thermostat trips for a short period of time, reset it.
   

IF FILTER CUP IS NOT FILLING COMPLETLY THERE IS A AIR LEAK CHECK ALL HOSES AND FILTER FITTINGS

You can just search 'Canon AE-1 manual' on google and a PDF file of the manual will come up. As long as your computer supports PDF files you can open it and print it or just read it!

Unfortunately the 505V has no AE lock.