Leaking water By the piece that attaches to the black water tubes

I would try compressed air coat hanger will more than likely pierce the drain tubing then water would be leaking into passenger compartment

Hot or cold water? You need to determine whether it is the A/C drain or leaking heater core. we will start here with A/C. There will be a drain hose going through the firewall into the engine bay. Push a piece of wire up the drain tube then blow softly with compressed air or get fish tank tube put it in drain tube & blow. If you free blockage water will pour out of that drain tube. If the tube is blocked the water will go in the car But a leaking heater will do the same.

Hi there,
You can use Teflon tape on the threads or get some epoxy glue at an auto parts store,it comes in a clear tube about the diameter of a nickle.It's called block putty.Just take it out and knead it till it turns whatever color the instructions call for.A local hardware store will have the Teflon tape.Try the tape first and make sure the threads are OK.I have used the putty on my water cooler and on leaking pipes under the sink.One time use it to fix an oil leak on an engine in a car.Thank you for choosing FixYa.com.

I always add this for your information. If this is not the solution that you are looking for please re post because when we pick a question to answer FixYa takes it out of the questions.

Fluid master ballcock,counter clockwise,water level should be 1'' below overflow tube,you'll probubly have to adjust a few times (flushes) to get it right

If the problem is that you find water leaking out of the bottom of the unit, even when it isn't operating, it may be the same problem I had.

Here is what happened to me: After making an espresso, the unit would start to leak slowly from the bottom and eventually there would be a cup or two of water on the counter.

If that is what is happening to you, you may have the same problem I had. The good news is that I found the leak on my machine, and if you are a do-it-yourself repair person, it is a relatively easy fix (although a bit hard to get to). Here is what I did:

REMEMBER THAT YOUR UNIT MAY BE DIFFERENT THAN MINE, SO THESE INSTRUCTIONS MAY NOT BE CORRECT FOR YOURS. MINE LOOKS LIKE THE PICTURE IN YOUR QUESTION ABOVE.

Tools and material you will need:
- small phillips screwdriver
- flashlight
- pliers (any kind will do)
- small wire cutters
- 24-gauge galvanized steel wire (6" per finished repair)
NOTE: you may not need this wire if you can repair the
clip that is in the machine, as described in step 7) below.

1) Unplug the machine and lift out the water reservoir.

2) On the back of the machine, remove the little black covers over 4 screws (two near the top of the back, two near the bottom).

3) On the back of the machine, remove the 4 screws.

4) Remove the metal back of the machine and the two black plastic spacers that go between the back and the front of the machine.

5) The back that you just removed will still be attached to the unit by an electrical wire at the bottom. It will make things easier if you pull off the connector where it attaches to the bottom of the back. It should pull off without any tools, but mine was stuck on pretty tightly. If you want to leave it attached, that is no problem -- it will just be a bit more awkward.

6) Gently tip the machine on its side, and find the tall black plastic unit on the back of the main part of the machine. Pull carefully at the bottom of this tall black plastic unit. It won't come off, but it should come loose enough for you to get into the underside.

7) Find the little maze of tubing in the bottom. There should be several fittings that have hard metal spring clips where the tubing attaches to the plumbing of the main unit. I used a flashlight to see clearly underneath.

8) Look and locate the tubing that is leaking. Unfortunately by now the water may have dribbled everywhere, but in my case I could still tell which one of the tubing connections had water all around it. You may have to replace a couple of the connections if you can't tell which one was leaking. I was lucky that the leaking one was easy to get to. If yours is the one deep inside, you may have to figure out how to disassemble the unit more than I did.

The leak was caused because the metal spring clip wasn't doing a good job sealing the tubing onto the fitting. Since I didn't have any replacement for these clips, I improvised with some galvanized wire I did have. If you have the real clips or some other tubing clips or if you think you can move them or repair them to make them hold again, you can try that (and skip to step 14 below). If you want to do what I did, continue with step 9.

9) Pull the tubing off of the fitting and remove the spring clip (I actually just pushed my spring clip down on the tubing so that it would be "stored" inside the machine in case I wanted to try to fix it later).

10) Cut about a 6" length of the 24-gauge galvanized steel wire. With the tubing off of the fitting, start at the mid-point of the 6" length and wrap the wire three times around the end of the tubing. Be careful not to wrap it tightly yet, since you need to slip it onto the fitting inside the machine. Gently twist the two long wire ends together close to the tubing so that you have created your own little tubing clamp (with both of the ends of the 6" piece of wire flying free).

11) Push your tubing back onto the fitting. NOTE: If you have made the wire clamp too tight it won't go on. Either loosen up the wire a bit or if it is already twisted too tight, discard it and repeat step 10 with a new piece of wire.

12) Using a pair of standard pliers, grab the wire close to the tubing so you can gently pull it toward you while you twist it. This will pull it tight on the tubing, creating a clamp. This is a little tricky, and sometimes the wire breaks because I twist it too much, but just take it slow and gentle and you will get it right. The goal is to pull and twist just until it cinches down on the tubing. Once you think you have a good seal (give a little tug on the tubing and make sure it doesn't pull easily off the fitting), you are done. Congratulations (I hope!).

13) Push the long wire ends in so they won't get in the way of closing the unit up (I didn't cut mine off in case I need to pull them tighter later).

14) Gently push the tall black plastic unit back into it's proper position. Mine sort of clicked into place.

15) Re-attach the electrical wire to the back of the machine (the one you removed in step 5).

16) Find the two plastic spacers that you removed in step 4 and slip them over the back of the machine. Put the back of the machine in place. Put the bottom of the back in first, making sure that it is in the slot on the rubber grommet that is around the plug wire. Then make sure both long plastic spacers are aligned. Everything should look perfectly in place before you put in the firsts screw. It is kind of a dance to get all these pieces in there correctly, but if you use all 5 of your hands it is pretty easy :-).

17) Carefully screw in the 4 screws and put their covers back on.

Look around. If there aren't any loose parts left, you are done!!! I hope this works as well for you as it did for me. If it still leaks, I would open it up again and see if you can tell where it is leaking. If it is your new wire clamp, try tightening it or making a new one. If it is a different tubing spot, you can make a new clamp for it.

NOTE: when I first put my machine back together, it still "leaked" a little bit of water the first day, but it was just the water that was sitting in the machine. Once this dribbled out, and every day since, I haven't had any more water on my counter.

Good luck!

If the problem is that you find water leaking out of the bottom of the unit, even when it isn't operating, it may be the same problem I had.

Here is what happened to me: After making an espresso, the unit would start to leak slowly from the bottom and eventually there would be a cup or two of water on the counter.

If that is what is happening to you, you may have the same problem I had. The good news is that I found the leak on my machine, and if you are a do-it-yourself repair person, it is a relatively easy fix (although a bit hard to get to). Here is what I did:

REMEMBER THAT YOUR UNIT MAY BE DIFFERENT THAN MINE, SO THESE INSTRUCTIONS MAY NOT BE CORRECT FOR YOURS. MINE LOOKS LIKE THE PICTURE IN YOUR QUESTION ABOVE.

Tools and material you will need:
- small phillips screwdriver
- flashlight
- pliers (any kind will do)
- small wire cutters
- 24-gauge galvanized steel wire (6" per finished repair)
NOTE: you may not need this wire if you can repair the
clip that is in the machine, as described in step 7) below.

1) Unplug the machine and lift out the water reservoir.

2) On the back of the machine, remove the little black covers over 4 screws (two near the top of the back, two near the bottom).

3) On the back of the machine, remove the 4 screws.

4) Remove the metal back of the machine and the two black plastic spacers that go between the back and the front of the machine.

5) The back that you just removed will still be attached to the unit by an electrical wire at the bottom. It will make things easier if you pull off the connector where it attaches to the bottom of the back. It should pull off without any tools, but mine was stuck on pretty tightly. If you want to leave it attached, that is no problem -- it will just be a bit more awkward.

6) Gently tip the machine on its side, and find the tall black plastic unit on the back of the main part of the machine. Pull carefully at the bottom of this tall black plastic unit. It won't come off, but it should come loose enough for you to get into the underside.

7) Find the little maze of tubing in the bottom. There should be several fittings that have hard metal spring clips where the tubing attaches to the plumbing of the main unit. I used a flashlight to see clearly underneath.

8) Look and locate the tubing that is leaking. Unfortunately by now the water may have dribbled everywhere, but in my case I could still tell which one of the tubing connections had water all around it. You may have to replace a couple of the connections if you can't tell which one was leaking. I was lucky that the leaking one was easy to get to. If yours is the one deep inside, you may have to figure out how to disassemble the unit more than I did.

The leak was caused because the metal spring clip wasn't doing a good job sealing the tubing onto the fitting. Since I didn't have any replacement for these clips, I improvised with some galvanized wire I did have. If you have the real clips or some other tubing clips or if you think you can move them or repair them to make them hold again, you can try that (and skip to step 14 below). If you want to do what I did, continue with step 9.

9) Pull the tubing off of the fitting and remove the spring clip (I actually just pushed my spring clip down on the tubing so that it would be "stored" inside the machine in case I wanted to try to fix it later).

10) Cut about a 6" length of the 24-gauge galvanized steel wire. With the tubing off of the fitting, start at the mid-point of the 6" length and wrap the wire three times around the end of the tubing. Be careful not to wrap it tightly yet, since you need to slip it onto the fitting inside the machine. Gently twist the two long wire ends together close to the tubing so that you have created your own little tubing clamp (with both of the ends of the 6" piece of wire flying free).

11) Push your tubing back onto the fitting. NOTE: If you have made the wire clamp too tight it won't go on. Either loosen up the wire a bit or if it is already twisted too tight, discard it and repeat step 10 with a new piece of wire.

12) Using a pair of standard pliers, grab the wire close to the tubing so you can gently pull it toward you while you twist it. This will pull it tight on the tubing, creating a clamp. This is a little tricky, and sometimes the wire breaks because I twist it too much, but just take it slow and gentle and you will get it right. The goal is to pull and twist just until it cinches down on the tubing. Once you think you have a good seal (give a little tug on the tubing and make sure it doesn't pull easily off the fitting), you are done. Congratulations (I hope!).

13) Push the long wire ends in so they won't get in the way of closing the unit up (I didn't cut mine off in case I need to pull them tighter later).

14) Gently push the tall black plastic unit back into it's proper position. Mine sort of clicked into place.

15) Re-attach the electrical wire to the back of the machine (the one you removed in step 5).

16) Find the two plastic spacers that you removed in step 4 and slip them over the back of the machine. Put the back of the machine in place. Put the bottom of the back in first, making sure that it is in the slot on the rubber grommet that is around the plug wire. Then make sure both long plastic spacers are aligned. Everything should look perfectly in place before you put in the firsts screw. It is kind of a dance to get all these pieces in there correctly, but if you use all 5 of your hands it is pretty easy :-).

17) Carefully screw in the 4 screws and put their covers back on.

Look around. If there aren't any loose parts left, you are done!!! I hope this works as well for you as it did for me. If it still leaks, I would open it up again and see if you can tell where it is leaking. If it is your new wire clamp, try tightening it or making a new one. If it is a different tubing spot, you can make a new clamp for it.

NOTE: when I first put my machine back together, it still "leaked" a little bit of water the first day, but it was just the water that was sitting in the machine. Once this dribbled out, and every day since, I haven't had any more water on my counter.

Good luck!

sounds like your heater hose connections
or the main hose....lots of new cars have radiator hoses with up to 7 attachments off of them.


Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

These refrigerators are bad for the defrost drain tube freezing up. Remove the back wall of the freezer to check the drain pan. Some people have attached a piece of wire to the heater and put the other end 2-3 inches down the drain tube to carry heat to help keep the ice cleared out.

Does the washer leak water into the tub even when it is not on. If so, your fill valve is leaking or sticking.

I would also check the following components for problems:
-Air pressure switch. This is usually located inside the control area and likely is attached to the water level control. Try attaching a small piece of tubing to the pressure switch and gently blow into it. If it turns off, the problem likely lies elsewhere.

-Air tube. This clear tube can get crimped or worn from the vibration of the washer's normal operation. Any holes, cracks or crimps will prevent the air pressure created by the water in the tub from getting to the pressure switch.

-Soap residue in the air dome. The airdome is the piece attached to the side of the washtub that allows water in the tub to exert air pressure into the tube and the pressure switch. Soap residue can create an obstruction that prevents the pressure from being transmitted up the tube. Try cleaning with vinegar or ammonia. (Remember: Clean the tub and tubing thoroughly with water after cleaning. Ammonia and Vinegar are both corrosive to electrical parts.)

Hope this helps!

This may be the same problem I had. After making an espresso, the unit would start to leak slowly from the bottom and eventually there would be a cup or two of water on the counter.

The good news is that I found the leak on my machine, and if you are a do-it-yourself repair person, it is a relatively easy fix (although a bit hard to get to). Here is what I did:

REMEMBER THAT YOUR UNIT MAY BE DIFFERENT THAN MINE, SO THESE INSTRUCTIONS MAY NOT BE CORRECT FOR YOURS. MINE LOOKS LIKE THE PICTURE IN YOUR QUESTION ABOVE.

Tools and material you will need:
- small phillips screwdriver
- flashlight
- pliers (any kind will do)
- small wire cutters
- 24-gauge galvanized steel wire (6" per finished repair)
NOTE: you may not need this wire if you can repair the
clip that is in the machine, as described in step 7) below.

1) Unplug the machine and lift out the water reservoir.

2) On the back of the machine, remove the little black covers over 4 screws (two near the top of the back, two near the bottom).

3) On the back of the machine, remove the 4 screws.

4) Remove the metal back of the machine and the two black plastic spacers that go between the back and the front of the machine.

5) The back that you just removed will still be attached to the unit by an electrical wire at the bottom. It will make things easier if you pull off the connector where it attaches to the bottom of the back. It should pull off without any tools, but mine was stuck on pretty tightly. If you want to leave it attached, that is no problem -- it will just be a bit more awkward.

6) Gently tip the machine on its side, and find the tall black plastic unit on the back of the main part of the machine. Pull carefully at the bottom of this tall black plastic unit. It won't come off, but it should come loose enough for you to get into the underside.

7) Find the little maze of tubing in the bottom. There should be several fittings that have hard metal spring clips where the tubing attaches to the plumbing of the main unit. I used a flashlight to see clearly underneath.

8) Look and locate the tubing that is leaking. Unfortunately by now the water may have dribbled everywhere, but in my case I could still tell which one of the tubing connections had water all around it. You may have to replace a couple of the connections if you can't tell which one was leaking. I was lucky that the leaking one was easy to get to. If yours is the one deep inside, you may have to figure out how to disassemble the unit more than I did.

The leak was caused because the metal spring clip wasn't doing a good job sealing the tubing onto the fitting. Since I didn't have any replacement for these clips, I improvised with some galvanized wire I did have. If you have the real clips or some other tubing clips or if you think you can move them or repair them to make them hold again, you can try that (and skip to step 14 below). If you want to do what I did, continue with step 9.

9) Pull the tubing off of the fitting and remove the spring clip (I actually just pushed my spring clip down on the tubing so that it would be "stored" inside the machine in case I wanted to try to fix it later).

10) Cut about a 6" length of the 24-gauge galvanized steel wire. With the tubing off of the fitting, start at the mid-point of the 6" length and wrap the wire three times around the end of the tubing. Be careful not to wrap it tightly yet, since you need to slip it onto the fitting inside the machine. Gently twist the two long wire ends together close to the tubing so that you have created your own little tubing clamp (with both of the ends of the 6" piece of wire flying free).

11) Push your tubing back onto the fitting. NOTE: If you have made the wire clamp too tight it won't go on. Either loosen up the wire a bit or if it is already twisted too tight, discard it and repeat step 10 with a new piece of wire.

12) Using a pair of standard pliers, grab the wire close to the tubing so you can gently pull it toward you while you twist it. This will pull it tight on the tubing, creating a clamp. This is a little tricky, and sometimes the wire breaks because I twist it too much, but just take it slow and gentle and you will get it right. The goal is to pull and twist just until it cinches down on the tubing. Once you think you have a good seal (give a little tug on the tubing and make sure it doesn't pull easily off the fitting), you are done. Congratulations (I hope!).

13) Push the long wire ends in so they won't get in the way of closing the unit up (I didn't cut mine off in case I need to pull them tighter later).

14) Gently push the tall black plastic unit back into it's proper position. Mine sort of clicked into place.

15) Re-attach the electrical wire to the back of the machine (the one you removed in step 5).

16) Find the two plastic spacers that you removed in step 4 and slip them over the back of the machine. Put the back of the machine in place. Put the bottom of the back in first, making sure that it is in the slot on the rubber grommet that is around the plug wire. Then make sure both long plastic spacers are aligned. Everything should look perfectly in place before you put in the firsts screw. It is kind of a dance to get all these pieces in there correctly, but if you use all 5 of your hands it is pretty easy :-).

17) Carefully screw in the 4 screws and put their covers back on.

Look around. If there aren't any loose parts left, you are done!!! I hope this works as well for you as it did for me. If it still leaks, I would open it up again and see if you can tell where it is leaking. If it is your new wire clamp, try tightening it or making a new one. If it is a different tubing spot, you can make a new clamp for it.

NOTE: when I first put my machine back together, it still "leaked" a little bit of water the first day, but it was just the water that was sitting in the machine. Once this dribbled out, and every day since, I haven't had any more water on my counter.

Good luck!