Worked for me, just took the old speaker out and dropped this one in no problem.Worked for me, just took the old speaker out and dropped this one in no problem.
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If you have an ohm meter (resistance) test for 7-8 ohms across each set of speaker leads to your sub woofer. Its likely you have blown speaker (load is causing amplifier to draw to much current) or just a bad amplifier in the sub (likely not worth $ repairing vs new). To test the sub woofer speaker itself you may have to take it apart to test its resistance.
you can go to a hardware store and silicone caulk that is black, make sure it is flexible type. clean surface with rubbing alcohol and a cue tip to prep surface area well, allow alcohol to dry,apply silicone front and back of cone evenly bout 16th inch thick and let dry for full cure time on directions of silicone caulk tube. sub will work awesome. ive done this on many car subs of high amps and never had it fail. hope this helps you alot, i understand how it feels
Before we get too committed to a direction to go, or embark on unnecessary surgery, can we establish that we KNOW it's the speaker and not the amp or source? Perhaps you could swap it with the other one.
Back to basics: is this a sudden-onset problem or did it always behave like this? Try swapping locations with the other one. Bass response is a lot about location, location, location. Standing waves, self-cancellation, phasing. All players in this game.
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