What helps remove silicone under stovetop

It is possible to use WD-40 to help loosen the nuts, but it may not be enough on its own to remove them. Here are some steps you can try to remove the nuts:

1. Turn off the gas supply to the stovetop and unplug the unit from the electrical outlet.
2. Use a wrench that fits the nut snugly and try turning it counter-clockwise to loosen the nut.
3. If the nut is stuck, try spraying a generous amount of WD-40 onto the threads of the nut and let it sit for a few minutes.
4. After the WD-40 has had a chance to penetrate the threads, try turning the nut again with the wrench.
5. If the nut still won't budge, try gently tapping the wrench handle with a hammer to help loosen the nut.
6. If all else fails, you may need to call a professional technician to remove the nuts safely.

It's important to note that improper removal of the nuts could cause damage to the stovetop or cause a gas leak, which could be dangerous. If you are unsure about how to proceed, it's best to call a qualified technician to help you.

very difficult
try a paint scraper about 1" wide and slide it under the edge and keep doing that until you get all the way around

Oven comes on and off intermittentlyor heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

OrWhy does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bakeignitor. Replacing theignitorusually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that theignitoris the problem before replacing it.Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

OrOven safety valve needs to be checkedwith multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSOTest the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreakerpanelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meterto the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!











Why is the oven temperature incorrect?

The oven temperature controlis usually controlled by a thermostat that uses a capillary and liquid filled bulb. When the bulb's liquid gets heated up, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm which opens and closes a switch that controls the gas to the burner. Just set the dial to what you need the temperature to be. Over time, it is possible for your thermostat to lose its calibration. Sometimes, the thermostat sensing bulb comes loose from the holder. If it is out of place, the thermostat may be getting faulty readings. If this is the problem, re-aligning the bulb properly will take care of this problem.Digital display models use a sensor to control temperature. If this is faulty, replace it. Other ovens use a mechanical system to control the temperature.On many models, you can adjust your oven thermostat using a small screwdriver. The adjusting screw is located on the thermostat valve stem. Remove the knob and you'll see the screw underneath it. You want to turn the oven on and run it through at least two cycles while watching a calibrating thermometer in the oven for high and low temperatures. Adjust the screw as necessary to fine tune the temperature.Some models don't have an adjustable thermostat, and you will have to replace the thermostat if you want to resolve the problem.
The oven sensor:works with the oven control board to regulate the oven temperature. If there is an oven temperature problem, this sensor might be defective. The sensor can be tested by using an ohm meter. As temperature rises, the resistance measurement also rises. The manufacturer of the oven sensor determines the correct resistance,Oven temperature problems can be caused by other things,but this is one of the common causes.
Beware on some models nowmost of these ovens they are electronic and they are integrated into the control itself
some different sensor ohm readings at room temp. approx 16 ohms at room temperature and at 350?F it is 29~33 ohms.
Read more:
http://www.justanswer.com/appliance/5xrsf-ge-xl44-gas-oven-oven-ignites-even-when-oven.html#ixzz3YdtiPcn8
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!

SEE PICS Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage
ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at the fusebox orbreaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity. Test the resistance of the heating element using a multi meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continui

We Use Debruce Polish on all our cooktops. Debruce also works on stainless steel and polished granite, marble, porcelain, formica and glass. DeBruce is non-toxic odor-less and eco-friendly. You can get DeBruce on line at debrucepolish.com.

Is it a glass top. If it is, glass will absorb the heat. It will cool off after some time. That is normal.

yes that's normal only the power source coming in needa #8 then its distributed to all other burners so the stove does not need heavier thanks the appliance doc

Can you provide specific model number information ? That would help me to help you...

I had that happen once and it went off after a day. I'd suggest maybe turning off the breaker and wait a few minutes and turn it back on. But here's my problem for you. I got the 30" model in March, 2008. The problem I've had is that the induction units cool down and start cycling when I'm cooking something like bacon, or pork chops etc., ie. where you're trying to brown something or sear. They cycle up and down every couple of minutes, so its really annoying. They work fine if I'm boiling water for pasta or sauces, etc. Have you experienced this. I've been working with the dealer and the company and they say its a "software" problem, but they've haven't taken them off the market. I use All-Clad stainless steel pans so that's not the issue. Thanks for your comments.

I'm assuming this is a 220/240v unit. The wall has two blacks, each with reference to white is 120v. Since you need 240 volts, you need to use both blacks. The third wire you'll need is ground. ALWAYS make sure you use a ground wire!!

Realistically, the white is connected to the Ground terminal in your circuit breaker box. Best practice says cap off the white, and use the GROUND.