How to fix the back tire

? Que? Do you mean that it doesn't select or move freely? Gets too notchy maybe? Has this car done alot of miles? Or just a good lot of gear shifts? All Diahatsu and Yaris have horrible gear selections.. what you COULD do is strip down the gear shift, check the ball on the end of the shifter for scoring, put in a decent grease (into the ball reccess) or sometimes there is heavy wear on the metal part of the shifter, just above the ball, if so, weld back up or if no welder try chemical metal. This will also have the effect of a shorter gear change. ok?

I vote yes. Any worn component of the front end be it ball joints,tie rods,wheel bearings,even tire balance will adversely affect tire wear.

Its probably the stabilizer bar or part of it.
You can go to the auto parts online stores and look up suspension parts for your make and model to see photos of the parts.

Are you sure that it is not going into gear? Could it be that the key did not get put back in place. The key is a little rectangular piece of metal that slides into a slot on the axle and inside the center of the wheel to keep the axle and wheel interlocked. Sometimes they slide out when putting the wheel back on.

Two options to try first; tire is not on tight, or the ball joint is bad. Either is an easy and cheap fix. Try the tire first, make sure all the lug nuts are tight. If so, it is your ball joint. Imagine a ping pong ball with a screw sticking out of the bottom of it. That is the ball joint. jack up the car, try to wiggle the tire, if the ball joint has a lot of play that if definitely the problem. Not expensive to fix either. If the tire/wheel doesn't go back and forth (has a lot of play) you should take it to a mechanic to see if the tie rods are on correctly. Good Luck!

Sounds like the noise is a bad bearing to me. If the ball joints or tie rod ends were bad, you would have irregular steering or in an extreme case, the front end would fall apart and you would lose steering abilities.

this vehicle is known for suspension noises the most popular of which is the upper control arms but there is trailing arm bushings and ball joints that make almost the same identical sound. you can jack the car up on one side when the tire clears the floor hold the tire at 3 and 9 o' clock and rock left to right and feel for any play or lose feeling in the suspension it is supposed to be rigid the slightest play in any of these items you wont believe the racket they would make. do the same for the other side as well...then hold the tire at 12 and 6 o' clock and rock the tire up to down and do the same for the other side., if it is suspension bushings or upper ball joints you will find it like this. the lower ball joints however is a lil more tricky jack the car up on one side placing the jack under the lower control arm as close to the ball joint as you can go and jack till the tire is about 1-2 inches off the ground stick a bar under the tire and pry the tire higher off the ground and release repeat this till you can confirm weather there is play or not in the lower ball joint NOTE: it is best if you do this test with 2 people one to look at the ball joint while the other works the tire. for the trailing arm bushings you need 2 people for this one as well..... have someone drive the car forward 5 feet then step on the brake do it in reverse as well and step on the brake, fix your eyes to the back of the tire 3 o' clock on the driver side and the fender and see if there is excessive play. NOTE: the wheel is supposed to give a little but that is about 1/2 of an inch front to back any more and these bushings are bad.
vbninja E.A.P

The switchbladenozzles web site is down, but here is the content from the trouble shooting page circa 2008 from archive.org:

(SCHWINN BIKE) PUMP
• Using the SWITHCBLADE pump nozzle (both 5-in-1 and 4-in-1):
EXPLAINING THE INTERNAL SWITCHING MECHANISM
To get best results from your SWITCHBLADE equipped pump, it is helpful to understand how the automatic switching
mechanism works. The internal switch (changing the air from flowing to the hole for bike tires to the needle for
sport balls) senses back pressure from the object you are trying to inflate. When you insert the needle into the
ball, (or put the nozzle on a bike tire valve) the back pressure inside the ball (or tire) flows into the nozzle
and pushes the switching mechanism to shut off the outlet you are not using.

PROBLEM: Air is escaping through the wrong outlet
NOTE: In the case of a new pump/nozzle OR a pump/nozzle that has not been used for a long time, it is possible
excess lubricant used in the manufacturing process and/or dirt have caused the switch to stick in place.
Don NOT attempt to block the outlet you are not using. Common sense tells you to do this, but in fact it will
only create back pressure in the channel you do not want to use and actually further block air from being
directed to the correct outlet.
FIRST SOLUTION
After making sure your nozzle is firmly attached to the tire valve (or in the case of a sport ball, the needle
is firmly and completely inserted into the ball) give three to five quick firm strokes of the pump. Doing this
should create enough back pressure in the nozzle to free up the mechanism and activate the switch.
SECOND SOLUTION
In certain circumstances, the two most common of which are a brand new bicycle inner tube (note: many new inner
tubes actually have NEGATIVE pressure inside, as they have had the air sucked out of them at the factory to make
it easier to put the tube inside the packaging) or a totally flat sport ball, rapid firm pumping may not be
enough to activate the switch. In these cases do the following:
SPORT BALL:
Insert needle is firmly and completely into the ball.
Give the ball a hard squeeze (this will force air up the needle and trigger the internal switch).

You need to have your alignment, cambering diagnosed for you to know the real position of your four tires. yes you really need to check the tie rods.
Heating up the metal would most likely damage your paint and anti corrosion properties of your metal, try re-aligning the doors hinges by loosening the screws enough for the door to move, dont dismantle it.

Your front "ball & socket" joints are in dire need of lubrication. You need to do this:
Take the tires off, and look for a fill plug behind the hub, on the housing, above the ball & socket. Remove the plug, and fill it up with 80-90 gear oil. Replace the plug, do the other side.
What you have is a dry joint, and the clicking noise is coming from the u-joint (actually called a "Rzeppa" joint), inside the ball/socket/hub...a good lubrication will eliminate your condition. Hope this answers your question, please feel free to comment back with any other questions...And, thanks for choosing FixYa.