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if ur amp has to channels then u hook up the + to the right side of the amp an the - up to the other side of the amp , make shore u turn down ur amp if u do so
Hello... sorry you are having a problem. If you are running the 325.1, that amplifier is strictly a mono-block amplifier (1 channel) so it is not possible to bridge it. There are 2 speaker connections on the amp but both positives and negatives are connected on the circuit board in the amp. Hope this helps. Good luck with your venture.
Short inside one of the transistors. This requires very good soldring skills and electrical know-how, and some thermal paste to go between the heat-sink and the transistor. Unfortunatly this is not a cheap repair, probably cost around 100 dollars.
Watts delivered is a function of the voltage times the current. If the amp was 100 percent efficient, it would need 33 amps at 12V for 400 watts. At 14.4V, it would only need 28 amps. Of course, amplifiers are NOT 100 percent efficient, only about 50-60 percent in many cases, but somewhat higher for monoblocks, maybe 80-90 percent. So you're looking at a fuse in the 60-80A range. In the absense of a specific fuse size from the manufacturer, I'd start the primary fuse at a 60A and if the amp blows it on power up/immediately/frequently, move up to an 80A.
All of the Rockford-Fosgate 2-channel bridgeables I've ever seen show using the left positive (+) and the right negative (-) for bridging. But if it's not shown right on the amp, I'd call or email RF for the correct connection. The new amps do show it.
if your sub will handle it, bridging it will give you more power. The best thing to do is to find out how much power the amp puts out ( RMS ) and if it is in your power handling range bridge it. It sounds better and gives you a harder punch because of more power.
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