Hello? Should this pump be connected to a bladder Tank?

The bladder is there to prevent the water from coming into contact with the metal tank. This is important when your drinking water is coming through that tank. If the tank is just being used for irrigation the bladder is not really necessary. You also have air between the bladder and tank so create pressure on the water and prevent short cycling of pump motor.
If air is coming up then there has to be some sort of leak on the piping or fitting on the suction side of your well pump. This can cause you to also lose your prime. Check the Check valve (prevents water from suction line going back into ground) for leaks around the fitting.

Yes, a bladder type tank is a lot more dependable. You can install a diaphragm into your bladderless tank but it will still need to be charged with air periodically.

That sounds like the most logical explanation. If the bladder was intact you'd be unable to get water through the air valve. Is the tank new or old? If it's a new well/pump/tank there could be something wrong with the pressure switch or it could be out of adjustment.

Sounds like you have a bad pressure tank and the tank is waterlogged..... if it has a bladder in it, you can press the air valve on the top, and if water comes out, the bladder is torn and the tank needs to be replaced... if is not a bladder tank, then you might need to have a new air switch installed.

A bladder tank is a water storage tank that is used to allow a pump to compress air inside the tank. Water can't be compressed so the tank is built with a bladder or balloon inside that allows the pump to be able to build up pressure inside the tank. This allows a pressure switch to turn on or turn off the pump. Typically if the bladder goes bad inside the tank the pump will cycle rather frequesntly.

You should change filters and membrane and then proceed. Replace both filters not one. You mat to buy new RO unit that you can find filters on line ie store (less than you are going to pay for Culligan) PROCEDURE FOR RECHARGING REVERSE OSMOSIS BLADDER TANK WITH AIR
When you turn on the faucet you notice low water pressure from the storage tank and only a quick burst of water come out of the system, and it dies down to trickles. Is the tank defective, i.e., bladder has hole and not functioning properly? Perhaps.

If you have the above problem and the tank is heavy (full), then try to relief the pressure from the air valve on the tank side. Is water coming out? If the answer is yes, then the bladder has hole and is defective, and tank replacement is due. If air comes out then it is possible that the air needs to be recharged.

Notes on bladder tank, please continue reading:

RO Tank useful life is 5-7 years. If the tank has been serving you for that long it is possible that the bladder had a hole and that tank replacement is due. If the tank is not that old, it is worth it to evaluate it for air pressure. In an empty tank, air pressure should be 7-10 psi. In a full/heavy tank, air pressure should be 30-40 psi. To be accurate, air pressure should be 2/3 of incoming water pressure. When the tank is full, and if feed water pressure to the RO system is 60 psi, then a full tank should have 40 psi. The RO tank has a bladder inside, and this bladder separates air from water. On the lower side of the tank is the air valve which is connected to the compressed air chamber. The top water inlet/outlet port (where the tank valve is mounted) is connected to the pure water chamber. So, when you turn on the faucet, the compressed air would squeeze or compress the bladder to force the water out of the tank.

You do not want to believe the tank is useless and want to do extra testing? If your answer is yes, please continue reading.

TOOLS NEEDED FOR TESTING:

1. An air compressor or air pump (like a bicycle tire air pump)

2. An air pressure gauge that is able to read less than 10 psi, and

3. Adjustable wrench.

STEPS:

1. Shut off the water supply to the RO system

2. Turn on the faucet to allow water to run until it stops.

3. Check to see if there is still water in the storage tank by lifting the tank. If the tank feels heavy, that means you need to recharge the tank and continue the following steps. If the tank feels light, that means you don't need to charge your storage tank at this moment.

4. Locate the air valve on the side of the tank. It looks like the air valve on tires.

5. Use air compressor or air pump to pump air into the tank. Keep the faucet on while pumping air, so that all water inside the tank can be purged out.

6. After all water has been drained from the tank, use an air pressure gauge to check the tank pressure.

7. The tank should have 7 psi of pressure when it's empty. Add or purge air if necessary.

8. Turn the feed water valve back on, and turn off the faucet to allow refilling of the tank.

9. finished.

What if the tank does not hold pressure and you see the same problem again? Bladder is out and you need to replace the tank.

The pump should only run if you are using water. If you have a leak it will cycle on and off. If it only cycling fast when you're using water, you may need an expansion tank, sometimes referred to as a bladder tank for newer style. If you have a "bladder" tank , the bladder may be leaking and lost it's air charge. This bladder will have an initial air charge, and when the pump runs it will compress the bladder even further. When the pump shuts off the bladder is compressed. When you begin to use water, mainly low flow like one faucet, the bladder will begin to expand expelling the water from the tank until the pressure drops below that of the pump pressure switch. This makes the pump start and stop fewer times.

Is this in a camper? You can either increase the flow to match that of the pump, or install a "bladder" tank in your plumbing system. A small air bladder tank is not too expensive. You charge it with a min of air pressure. When the pump comes on, it will pump the water, and this will compress the bladder raising the pressure in the bladder. When you begin to use the water, the bladder tank will begin to supply the water, when the pressure drops sufficently enough for the pump to come on the cycle will repeat, allowing the pump to start and stop with a delay in between instead of off-on-off-on etc.

These holding tanks are pre charged with air which in turn pressurizes the water. The tank has a bladder and an air valve on top. The pre charge ,over time, loses pressure, and the tank has to be pressurized again.

• The well pump needs to be turned off.
• The water has to be drained from the tank
• Air is put into the tank from the air valve on top of the tank, and is measured with a tire air gauge.
• The pre charge pressure is set to two psi below the pump cut in pressure.
• In other words if your pump kicks on at 30 psi, the pre charge pressure is set at 28 psi. If the pump kicks in at 20 psi, the pre charge is set at 18psi, etc.
• After you pressurize the tank, turn water back on.
• If water comes out of air valve on top of tank, then the bladder is ruptured and you need a new tank.
• Hope this helps!

Turn off pump, open the tank water valve and let water out, now try and fill tank with air, if the bladder is bad the air will come out the valve, if no air, just fill it to 40psi and you should be good to go.
Bad bladder means you need to buy a new tank. Hope it just lost pressure and its ok.