Replace control box.
Call Whirlpool
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html
Gene
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7
SOURCE: no hot water
If the water does not heat, then you have to troubleshoot to find the problem. With a voltmeter determine if 240VAC is actually getting to the water heater. Take care here - a defective circuit breaker can give a false 240 volt reading - check for the 240 volts across the upper element (i.e. when the 240 volts has a live load on it, not just an open circuit test).
Also, remember, the upper element has priority over the lower element, and if the water is cold, the upper element will try to turn on and this locks out the lower element (only one element is allowed to heat at any given time). The lower element comes on ONLY after the upper thermostat is satisfied. Therefore if the upper heating element is burned out you will never get any hot water. If you suspect this, TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE HEATER and take a resistance check of the upper element.
SOURCE: Whirlpool energy smart water heater
Two flashes means that the high limit temperature has been reached. Once this happens, the temperature control system will shut off. Make sure that all element access doors are in place. Push the "Push to Reset" button to restart the temperature control system. The water heater will self test for ten minutes before it will start to heat. If you get the 2 flashes again then you may need to replace one or both elements. Each element should measure 5-25 ohms.
The "thermostat" is the knob marked "Temperature Control". Make sure that the operating mode is set to 1,2 or 3.
SOURCE: energy smart hot water heater
For images and product information
For manual
You checked ohms, did you check for 240V across lower element when lower element is turned on?
Energy smart electric water heater has a control box on top of unit. Water heater does not have typical thermostats that can be tested and replaced. Temperature sensors located above each element send information to control box through small black and red wires. Temperature sensor sells for about $40, but there is no test listed that shows how to determine when sensors fail.
Potential problems:
-Temperature sensor is not reading correct temp
-Control box not processing correct temperature information
-Selector on control box set to 2, 3 or 4
-Thermostat temp on control box set lower than 120 degrees F
-Sediment build-up starting to surround lower element so water doesn't circulate (see if drain valve runs full-open
SOURCE: 2 green flashes. hot water is blazing hot set at
2 green flashes is 'High Water Temp.'
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html
Typical energy smart manual:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Whirlpool-energy-smart-electric-manual.pdf
3 flashes is Temperature Sensor failure.
4 flashes is Upper element
5 flashes is Lower element
Troubleshoot section says:
1) Make sure access doors and insulation are installed.
2) Check elements for resistance of 5-25 ohms (if element has a short in center of element, it might not trip breaker)
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
3) replace element and reset control system.
Buy ordinary 4500 Watt element from hardware store.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html
4) I also suspect the self-diagnostic control box.
Manual says: Repair parts may be ordered through your plumber,
local distributor, home improvement center, or by calling
1-877-817-6750.
You need serial number, product number and model number from label on side of tank.
SOURCE: I just installed a marathon
The top element should be heating if there is 240 volts across the element terminals. I take it that the top element is the booster element. The thermostat for the top element is normally a 2 pole thermostat which switches the neutral to the bottom thermostat once it reaches temperature. Once this occurs then the bottom element will start to heat. The top element will only come on when you use all the hot water. Is this supply on the off-peak rate? When testing always check the voltage across the element terminals.
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