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Anonymous Posted on Oct 02, 2014

Whats wrong? Energy Smart hot water heater model EE2H50RD045V. No voltage at lower element. Voltage at upper element.

1 Answer

Gene Haynes

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  • Water Heaters Master 5,391 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 09, 2014
Gene Haynes
Water Heaters Master
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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 17, 2008

SOURCE: no hot water

If the water does not heat, then you have to troubleshoot to find the problem. With a voltmeter determine if 240VAC is actually getting to the water heater. Take care here - a defective circuit breaker can give a false 240 volt reading - check for the 240 volts across the upper element (i.e. when the 240 volts has a live load on it, not just an open circuit test).
Also, remember, the upper element has priority over the lower element, and if the water is cold, the upper element will try to turn on and this locks out the lower element (only one element is allowed to heat at any given time). The lower element comes on ONLY after the upper thermostat is satisfied. Therefore if the upper heating element is burned out you will never get any hot water. If you suspect this, TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE HEATER and take a resistance check of the upper element.

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Anonymous

  • 21 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 13, 2009

SOURCE: Whirlpool energy smart water heater

Two flashes means that the high limit temperature has been reached. Once this happens, the temperature control system will shut off. Make sure that all element access doors are in place. Push the "Push to Reset" button to restart the temperature control system. The water heater will self test for ten minutes before it will start to heat. If you get the 2 flashes again then you may need to replace one or both elements. Each element should measure 5-25 ohms.

The "thermostat" is the knob marked "Temperature Control". Make sure that the operating mode is set to 1,2 or 3.

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Oct 08, 2010

SOURCE: energy smart hot water heater

element-connection-450.jpg
For images and product information
For manual


You checked ohms, did you check for 240V across lower element when lower element is turned on?

Energy smart electric water heater
has a control box on top of unit. Water heater does not have typical thermostats that can be tested and replaced. Temperature sensors located above each element send information to control box through small black and red wires. Temperature sensor sells for about $40, but there is no test listed that shows how to determine when sensors fail.

Potential problems:
-Temperature sensor is not reading correct temp
-Control box not processing correct temperature information
-Selector on control box set to 2, 3 or 4
-Thermostat temp on control box set lower than 120 degrees F
-Sediment build-up starting to surround lower element so water doesn't circulate (see if drain valve runs full-open

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Jan 11, 2011

SOURCE: 2 green flashes. hot water is blazing hot set at

2 green flashes is 'High Water Temp.'
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

Typical energy smart manual:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Whirlpool-energy-smart-electric-manual.pdf

3 flashes is Temperature Sensor failure.
4 flashes is Upper element
5 flashes is Lower element

Troubleshoot section says:
1) Make sure access doors and insulation are installed.
2) Check elements for resistance of 5-25 ohms (if element has a short in center of element, it might not trip breaker)
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
3) replace element and reset control system.
Buy ordinary 4500 Watt element from hardware store.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

4) I also suspect the self-diagnostic control box.
Manual says: Repair parts may be ordered through your plumber,
local distributor, home improvement center, or by calling
1-877-817-6750.
You need serial number, product number and model number from label on side of tank.

Anonymous

  • 235 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 21, 2011

SOURCE: I just installed a marathon

The top element should be heating if there is 240 volts across the element terminals. I take it that the top element is the booster element. The thermostat for the top element is normally a 2 pole thermostat which switches the neutral to the bottom thermostat once it reaches temperature. Once this occurs then the bottom element will start to heat. The top element will only come on when you use all the hot water. Is this supply on the off-peak rate? When testing always check the voltage across the element terminals.

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Related Questions:

1helpful
4answers

Troubleshooting whirlpool ee2h50rd045v water heater

1) Copy following links for whirlpool energy smart resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Energy-Smart-troubleshooting-guide.pdf
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

2) Control box is probably bad.
There are 2 types of control boxes for older-style energy smart water heaters.
You will need model number and serial number from label on side of tank to order from Whirlpool.

3) This older-type energy smart water heater is probably discontinued by AO-Smith, American, State, Craftmaster, Reliance water heater group that makes Whirlpool and Kenmore water heaters.
New generation energy smart offers interface with home automation and/or non-existent smart grid.
Older energy smart only offered potential interface with non-existent smart grid.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1helpful
1answer

Can I run the hot water heater with a generator

Yes.
Ordinary electric water heater can run on any voltage from any direction (excluding volt/amp ratings below what can heat element coil).

Voltages include single-phase, split phase, and 3-phase residential/commercial voltages with either 50 or 60 Hz.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-for-120-Volt.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html#3-phase

Install line fuse.
30 amp fuse would be required to prevent wires from overheating, and eliminate fire hazard.

This information does NOT apply to energy-smart electric water heater with box on top of heater, or newer energy smart with electronics, or to hybrid water heaters, or heat pump water heaters with delicate electronic circuitry.

Why it works like this:
Ordinary electric water heater thermostats are mechanical bi-metal switches and respond to tank temperature, and are not operated by electricity.
Ordinary generic elecrtic water heater thermostats switch electricity on-off using mechanical bi-metal switch.
Heat elements are simple coil of thermal wire that gets hot when voltage is applied.
The element will get hot when power is applied.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

0helpful
2answers

LOWER ELEMENT IS NOT GETTING ANY VOLTAGE ON MODEL 65220RS

Short answer: Thermostats may be bad. Replace both thermostats.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

Long answer:
1) If water heater has some hot water, then upper element is good and water heater has 240Volts, and best suspect is burned out lower element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html

2) If water heater has no hot water because 240volt circuit breaker is tripped on one leg, and only 120Volts is arriving at water heater, then upper part of water heater can appear to have voltage and lower part of water heater can appear to have no voltage.
Open following links for troubleshoot steps:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Test-electricity-to-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more help
2helpful
2answers

Hello - I have a 6-7 yr old Whirlpool EnergySmart 50 gallon 5500 watt water heater. (Two control boards fried and were replaced free). Symptom now is not enough hot water. No 'error codes' are blinking...

1) Residential water heaters are non-simultaneous. Only one element works at a time.
Upper element comes on until top of tank is heated, and then lower element is switched on until lower part of tank is heated. Lower element keeps tank hot during standby hours
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

2) Typical Whirlpool energy smart has 4500Watt elements. Look at label on side of tank
If both elements were ON, that would draw 9000Watts or 37.5 amps, requiring 50 amp breaker and 8 gauge wire. V x A = Watts.
All dual-element tanks are 240V.
Whirlpool energy smart requires 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker so electronics are not starved during operation. If your wire or breaker are undersized, that is suspect for repeated failure.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

3) Typical electric water heater heats 21 gallons per hour. First hour delivery is higher since elements heat water as you use it. Overall however, electric water heater cannot re-heat as fast as gas because gas water heater burner carries more BTU punch per minute than electric element. Gas heats about 41 gallons per minute, with higher first hour delivery.

4) IF YOU HAVE OLDER energy smart and installed newer board, then you could have non-simultaneous operation is reversed so that lower element comes on first.
Read following post at Fixya:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t8263226-our_water_heater_doing
Contact Whirlpool 1-877-817-6750

5) Another potential problem is that you have sediment inside tank and that is reducing efficiency of lower element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

Add a comment with your experience so others with same-similar problem can benefit.

Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.
0helpful
1answer

Whirlpool 40 gallon energy smart elecrtic water heater. The control board binks once, by the panel means system start up failure,but we still have hot water,but every time we use the hot water it starts...

The evidence points to a control malfunction.
Call Whirlpool for assistance: 1-877-817-6750
You will need your model number and serial number located on label on side of tank.
Serial number is required because models change as the technology evolves.

Open following link to read product details about the Energy Smart, and download typical manual.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

Note: Energy Smart water heater requires 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker.

Typical energy smart manual shows: 1 flash is start-up error, which indicates 'Power ON with no water in tank.'
This is not possible because at least the upper element would burn out, if not both elements.
If upper element burns out, this water heater will not make any hot water, since it is wired for ordinary non-simultaneous operation.
There cannot be air inside the tank since your hot water faucet is not spewing air.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

Also be aware that model numbers change.
Read following account of fellow who replaced control board on his 4-year-old energy smart, and how he discovered wires are reversed on newer control boards. Be sure to ask Whirlpool about this possibility, in the event they say control board is faulty and send you new board:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t8263226-our_water_heater_doing
0helpful
1answer

2 green flashes. hot water is blazing hot set at 120 degrees.have the energy smart unit model#ee2h50rd045v . what is wrong?

2 green flashes is 'High Water Temp.'
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

Typical energy smart manual:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Whirlpool-energy-smart-electric-manual.pdf

3 flashes is Temperature Sensor failure.
4 flashes is Upper element
5 flashes is Lower element

Troubleshoot section says:
1) Make sure access doors and insulation are installed.
2) Check elements for resistance of 5-25 ohms (if element has a short in center of element, it might not trip breaker)
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
3) replace element and reset control system.
Buy ordinary 4500 Watt element from hardware store.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

4) I also suspect the self-diagnostic control box.
Manual says: Repair parts may be ordered through your plumber,
local distributor, home improvement center, or by calling
1-877-817-6750.
You need serial number, product number and model number from label on side of tank.
0helpful
2answers

Water was much hotter this morning, actually steaming when faucet turned to max. I checked thermostat & reset button, seemed to be normal. I shut off power and pushed reset button, waiting for it to...

I would try it again and if water temp is still to high then I would adjust thermostat down to say 120 degrees and see what that does.If problem continues I would replace thermostat. Thank you
1helpful
1answer

What is the energy factor for the mod.82V80-2? I have two seperate 30amp circuits, one for the top element and one for the bottom element, if that changes anything.

http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=09DF2BDD-5E11-4D32-B574-84ACFB8A4619
http://globalimageserver.com/fetchDocument.aspx?id=052c9e32-ce37-48d7-8990-9e430f23fef3

82V80-2 Energy factor is .86 according to water heater industry self-regulated standards.

Rheem pdf says these water heaters are wired for non-simultaneous operation.
Except special order water heaters.
Non-simultaneous operation uses single 240V circuit as described below.
If your water heater is wired for simultaneous operation, and each element is on a separate circuit, that makes your water heater special order. I would guess the reason is for higher first-hour delivery, which implies rapid heating and would likely affect energy factor.
You might want to get serial number off model and call Rheem for specs on that special order.

Your water heater energy factor may be the same because 'energy efficiency is based on the amount of hot water produced per unit of fuel consumed over a typical day.' This means an aircraft carrier can be considered highly efficient despite overall cost. And naturally the guys making the aircraft carrier are also doing the rating.
http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=13000

Non simultaneous operation means the upper thermostat controls heating functions.
240V goes to upper thermostat first.
When water inside tank is cold, thermostat reads temperature through tank wall.
Upper thermostat turns on upper element until top 2/3 of tank reaches thermostat set point.
Once set point is reached, upper thermostat turns off upper element and sends power to lower thermostat and lower element.
Lower thermostat reads temperature through tank wall, and turns on lower element until bottom 1/3 of tank reaches thermostat set point.
As water cools inside tank, lower thermostat is first to respond since hot water rises.
Lower thermostat turns on lower element until tank again reaches set point.
When hot water faucet is turned on, hot water exits top of tank.
At same time, cold water enters bottom of tank through the dip tube.
The heating cycle repeats.
At all times, the electricity flows through upper thermostat. And upper thermostat is powered by one 240V circuit.

With simultaneous operation, the upper and lower thermostats work in same manner.
Except thermostats are wired separately.
Lower thermostat does not wait for upper part of tank to be heated first.
Lower thermostat turns on whenever lower part of tank cools.
The advantage is more hot water available rapidly when demand is high. This is called first hour recovery.

One method for reducing electric consumption is to set lower thermostat so it only turns on during certain times of day. For example Whirlpool Energy Smart operates in this manner and shaves a few bucks off the bill each month. This says that simultaneous operation is not an energy saver, unless that circuit controlling lower thermostat is set on a timer.
4helpful
1answer

No hot water

If the water does not heat, then you have to troubleshoot to find the problem. With a voltmeter determine if 240VAC is actually getting to the water heater. Take care here - a defective circuit breaker can give a false 240 volt reading - check for the 240 volts across the upper element (i.e. when the 240 volts has a live load on it, not just an open circuit test).
Also, remember, the upper element has priority over the lower element, and if the water is cold, the upper element will try to turn on and this locks out the lower element (only one element is allowed to heat at any given time). The lower element comes on ONLY after the upper thermostat is satisfied. Therefore if the upper heating element is burned out you will never get any hot water. If you suspect this, TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE HEATER and take a resistance check of the upper element.
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