What is the safest constant electric heat for a single room?

The easiest way to check is with a clamp on amp meter. 5kw heater is approximately 20 amps. 10kw is 40, 15 kw is approximately 60. Measure the amps on 1 line (main power) wire entering machine. It could be a sequencer it could only be running on single stage it could be the element, the amount of heat, the fan speed, many things. But, checking the amps is a sure, easy way to tell if all of your heat is working. Keep us posted, we can advise.

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This is a heavy one but I've stated before that all appliances and electronics need a functioning ground----you can't use a 3prong adapter to 2prong----there's no ground for the machine to function by and also an ungrounded machine is dangerous----this may not be your problem but it's the easiest to fix, the cheapest and the safest

single pane glass is not thermally efficient as the glass transfers heat or cold
double glazing with a air space between is more efficient and will require less power to keep the temp setting
before you do anything , talk with a thermal engineer or you could be wasting money by doing what you suggest incorrectly

The limit switch in a Ge oven usually works or is blown. I would look at the oven sensor located at the back of the oven. It should read approximately 1k ohm at room temperature.
http://www.on-timeappliance.com/ovenrepair.html

I would first pull your range out from the wall, unplug your range, then take off the back access panel and ohm your oven sensor. It should ohm out at 1100 ohms at room temperature.
If that checks good, then your control board is the problem.

Please understand first, air conditioning system not only cooling the area but also removing the heat. If heat in the room stays constantly, even 24 hrs running a/c couldn't cool the room.
Now, why the a/c could not cool the room or remove the heat from the room.
Check air filter, evaporator coil and blower wheel for clean. If not service the unit immediately. And also check indoor fan motor rpm. If rpm is low, replace fan capacitor. Check for gas pressure to confirm no leak or running with short of gas. It's advisable to service both indoor and out door once in 6 months at least. Otherwise, your electric bill will kill you lot. Thanks.

this is usually a temp sensor probe problem.check you wiring between the probe and the electronic control board. at room tempt check the resistance on the probe if it less than 500 ohms replace the probe.

Hi,
These electric heaters and efficiency do not go together at all!!
They are in no way efficient at all!!
Sure they are 100% efficient using the electric provided to them, but hwat is the cost of that electric compared to say gas or fuel oil?
The onlt way they can save you any money is if you live in one small room, heat that and not the rest of the house.
And no it is not more efficient to run it constantly...
If your not using the room you are heating with it turn it off.
Sorry if I seem to be ranting, but as a heating contractor I have seen these sold as "energy savers" many times and it is just a sales pitch and nothing more.
Absolutely NO truth to it whatsoever and they know it.

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!

Heatman101

unfamiliar with watt restrictors.
heat strips have 2 safety devices, a thermal overload, they get to hot they shut off, cause not enough air flow increase fan speed this device is auto reset. a fusible link a fail safe to thermal over load, no reset and sometimes replaceable. if this does not help would like to ask you a few questions. one of the buildings i take care of has 200 + reem/ ruuds all electric heat. if a part is defective replace, please do not by pass. safety frist.

Sounds like a thermostat problem or a short in the wire. Can you give us more info like is it gas or electric and model numbers will help.

 

Thanks.