Our Super Plus GE machine leaks water during drain spin cycle. All hoses are clear, and connected properly. Leak appears to be inside the washer body behind where the drain hose connects to the mach
If we support the drain hose outside the machine, the leak stops. This could be a problem with the drain hose connection where it connect to the machine inside the body. How is the machine body removed to access this hose connection member?
Re: Our Super Plus GE machine leaks water during drain...
If I remember correctly u have to remove the whole cabinet, by first removing the panel, then there will be 2 gold metal clips u have to pry out with a flat head, then the cabinet will come forward, of course remove all hose connections first
MIne did and it was the bleach container on the top that was getting clogged and leaking over, we actually drilled the hole a bit bigger and cleaned it all out and it stopped. I've had to take the whole top of the washer off to do this about 2-3 times now.
There is a bad seal where the tub mounting with the transmission shaft to cause the leak. It leaks when it tuns. To access this, the agitation fin need to be out so you can see the big nut holding the tube in a place with the shaft. Below this nut is a seal or gasket to prevent the water getting out of the bottom tube. Replace this then you are good . Good luck.
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If it is leaking at where the drain hose comes out of the wash machine, make sure the plastic spider clamp is seated securely in the groove on the drain hose. If that's not it, then, yes, you'll need to open up your washer to gain access to the inside of it. I don't know which model GE wash machine you have, but most of the GE top loaders can be opened by following the instructions in this youtube video:
A washer that leaks only during the spin and drain cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make.
During drain and spin onlyA washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. All the timeIf the washer leaks all the time, check these:Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air gap device: It is a small device found on most washers to prevent the wash water from from being siphoned into the household water supply. It is located either midway along or at the the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water inlet valve It is usually made of a translucent plastic. If it is deformed or cracked, you need to replace it.
The tube: It is a rubber tube that runs between the water inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it is broken, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout: Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If broken or loose, it can cause a leak.
During the drain and spin only:
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Check the entire hose and correct any problem you can find.
All the time:
Hot and cold water fill hoses: Check the hot and cold hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten or replace it.
Main tub seal: It is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Open the the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center.
Pump: You can probably see the leak when the tub is full of water. If it leaks, replace it.
Outer tub: Steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split or be punctured. Consult a qualified appliance technician if it is the culprit.
It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
During fill only During drain and spin only All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air-gap
device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that
prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water
supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black
rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of
translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or
cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a
rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the
air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a
leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout
near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the
tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a
leak.
During drain and spin only
A
washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the
main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you
find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split,
or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high
water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer
tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a
qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
During fill only During drain and spin only All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
looks like you have to replace the RUBBER SEAL thats inside the tub at the center post , try this , remove the panel so you can see inside , put the washer to fill w/ water , and watch closely underneath the tub wheres the transmision is connected , and watch for LEAKS . hope this info helps
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