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Allowing to sit on water pan for only 3 hours is not going to kill your Rainbow by itself. If there is no more information to this issue than what you described, the problem could be the motor is going bad and the thermal cut off is tripped. Possible reason it didn't do it while you were running the unit, is the motor cooling fan kept the temperature inside the motor just below the tripping point and then when you turned the machine off, this allowed the temperature to creep up past the limit and trip the thermal cut off. RainVac www.rainvac.com 800-523-0510
You may try to remove the fan, clean it up. Also try to remove the processor heat sink (clean the thermal paste), reseat the processor, put a little thermal paste, that assemble it back. Before you do this, ground your self first(the easier way, hold any metal).
If this can't help,check the capacitor at your MoBo and if you found any unusual look like, it mean you need a new MoBo.
All Kenmore Electric Dryers use a thermal cut-off or thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, and a cycling thermostat apart from the motor centrifugal switch as parts of the heating circuit. The thermal cut-off/thermal cut-out and the hi-limit thermostat are located on the heater duct/element duct while the cycling thermostat is located on the blower housing.
The thermal cut-off/cut-out serves as a safety measure and blows open should the dryer overheats or should the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut off power to the heating element. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off/cut-out and if open, replace it including the hi-limit thermostat.
in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac
The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The problem is very likely in the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the blower housing. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and cuts power to the heating element. Both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat need to be replaced if the former is blown open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this kind of problem. Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating
Any time a thermal cut off blows, it's because the cycling thermostat is bad. When it's bad, the machine cycles off of the thermal cut off rather than the cycling thermostat allowing the dryer to over heat. The thermal cut off is a re-setting safety and is not made to cycle off of. The thermostat you are looking for looks like a high limit thermostat but it cuts power to the element at a lower temp. Around 158 degrees + or - 25 degrees. It's located close to the high limit. It's a normally closed switch that opens on the rise and it will show closed now but the problem with it is that will not open. Replace it and your problem will be solved. Good luck.
2 red lights on part 1 and 3 indicate the the console is overheating, the most common problem is the thermal paste.
You need thermal paste or it will overheat instantly, using cheap
thermal paste or not using enough thermal paste will also cause problems.
Use good quality paste and apply enough to make
contact. You don't want to use too much, but if you use too little it
won't make good contact with the heatsinks.
If you've done this before then it shouldn't take too long, but if you haven't then just take your time. You don't want to put too much on at first so do it bit by bit.
If you're still getting this error after correcting with thermal paste then the only suggestion would be to contact Microsoft but then they might not take the 360 after you have already void any warranty by opening up the console.
replace the igniter. The ignitor is the most comon problem with gas appliances checking continuity does not tell you if it is bad or not it has to draw a certain amount of amps to open the gas safty valve and the is no safe way to check this on most gas dryers
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