How to remove the DMD shield on Mitsubishi wd65733

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9fiv4bI1qI
Replacing a DLP TV Chip - White Dots Issue - How to Fix...

1. Remove DMD Board Housing Screws. [02:34]
2. Remove DLP Chip Heatsink Screws. [03:31]
3. Remove DMD Board Screw. [03:58]
4. Reinstall DLP Chip Heatsink. [05:14]
5. Reinstall DMD Board Housing. [05:37]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JgiZdc4kZDw

To remove drum/fan drive motor:

• Remove rear panel & rear air duct. Remove belt from belttensioner. Remove top panel & drum if needed for better access.
• Disconnect terminal connector from motor, then remove two screws from motor mount & one screw holding fan to front shield. Lift rear of motor mount up and slide entire assembly toward rear of dryer.
• While holding motor shaft, not rotor fins, remove fan blade from motor shaft. Remove three screws, then remove fan housing from motor.
• Remove spring clamps by pushing ends of them down and away from motor. Lift motor up from motor mount.







Cage motor is the best blow out with compressed air. Also, by the way, clean the fan housing from the inside.

Dado

how to? that it the full steps, out and in,,>????
there is lots of information on this....
not in warranty? huh?
and how could IT be bad so soon?? no way/ ,huh?
why not post the symptoms and not guess. the below HORROR
posted to show 2 days lost work (life)
buy the FSM and read the HVAC chapter. every word
or alldata.com , same deal. look, read and decide,
oops I cant to this.....?


parcial excerpts. to prove case.
quote:
The HVAC housing assembly must be removed from vehicle for service of the heater core.

housing out: 101:
Disable the airbag system before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for the airbag system capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the airbag system. Failure to take the proper precautions could result in an accidental airbag deployment and possible serious or fatal injury.

WARNING

Refer to the applicable Warnings and Cautions for this system before performing the following operation and . Failure to follow these instructions may result in possible serious or fatal injury.

NOTE

The HVAC housing must be removed from the vehicle and disassembled for service of the heater core, A/C evaporator, air intake housing and the mode-air and blend-air doors.

NOTE

LHD model shown in illustrations. RHD model similar.

Heat Shield - Unified Line 08 JC

Heat Shield - Unified Line 08 JC

Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.

Recover the refrigerant from the refrigerant system (Refer to Heating and Air Conditioning/Plumbing - Standard Procedure).

Partially drain the engine cooling system (Refer to Cooling - Standard Procedure).

Remove the top nut (2) that secures the heat shield (3) to the stud (1) located on the dash panel.

NOTE

Two slots are provided at the bottom of the heat shield to aid in heat shield removal. Complete removal of the two bottom heat shield retaining nuts is not required.

Reach behind the engine and remove the two bottom nuts the that secure the heat shield to the studs located on the dash panel and remove the heat shield. Rotate and tilt the heat shield as required.
(capture the FREON as required by USA LAWS, Illegal for DIY person to do. so...)
Unified Liquid and Suction Line to Evaporator 08 JS

Unified Liquid and Suction Line to Evaporator 08 JS

Remove the bolt (1) that secures the A/C liquid and suction line assembly (2) to the A/C evaporator (3).

Disconnect the A/C liquid and suction line assembly from the A/C evaporator and remove and discard the dual-plane seals.

Install plugs in, or tape over the opened refrigerant line fittings and the evaporator ports.

Disconnect the heater hoses (4) from the heater core tubes. Install plugs in, or tape over the opened heater core tubes to prevent coolant spillage during housing removal.
HVAC Housing to Dash Panel Nut

HVAC Housing to Dash Panel Nut

NOTE

Make sure to remove the five bolts that secure the HVAC housing to the instrument panel support prior to removing the instrument panel from the vehicle.

Remove the instrument panel (Refer to Body/Instrument Panel/PANEL, Instrument - Removal).

Remove the rear floor ducts (Refer to Heating and Air Conditioning/Distribution/DUCT, Floor Distribution - Removal).

Remove the condensation drain tube (Refer to Heating and Air Conditioning/Plumbing/TUBE, Condensation Drain - Removal).

Remove the nut (1) that secures the passenger side of the HVAC housing (2) to the dash panel (3).

NOTE

Use care to ensure that the interior is covered in case of loss of residual fluids from the heater and evaporator cores.

Pull the HVAC housing rearward and remove the HVAC housing assembly from the passenger compartment.

at the least, and for sure , things will break, as you work.
get lost, or not figure out how to put it ALL BACK

Remove the HVAC housing assembly and place it on a workbench (Refer to Heating and Air Conditioning/Distribution/HOUSING, HVAC - Removal).

Remove the left side front floor duct (Refer to Heating and Air Conditioning/Distribution/DUCT, Floor Distribution - Removal).

NOTE

If the foam seal for the flange is deformed or damaged, it must be replaced.

Remove the foam seal (1) from the flange (2) located on the front of the HVAC housing (7).

Remove the screw (8) that secures the flange to the front of the HVAC housing and remove the flange.

Remove the screws (3) that secure the heater core tube retaining brackets (6) to the side of the air distribution housing (4).

On RHD models, remove the air distribution housing from the HVAC housing (Refer to Heating and Air Conditioning/Distribution/HOUSING, HVAC - Removal)

Carefully pull the heater core (5) out of the driver side of the air distribution housing.
end excerpt.

When you take off the back cover you are pretty much looking at the chip. Right in front of you in the middle of the light engine is a little fan.
Remove the fan and you will see a big metal heat sink / shield. remove the sheild and you will see a circuit board. in the middle of the board is the dmd chip.

Mitsubishi is replacing these DMD IC chips nationwide under an unannounced kind of recall for model #'s WD60C9, WD73733, WD57734, WDY657, WD73734, WD65735, WD60735, WD65C9, WD73840, WD65833, WD65733, WD73735, WD73833, WD57733, WD65734 and others. Call them @ 800-332-2119 and give them your model, serial # and date of purchase, tell them you have the white spots, they will set up a workorder with a local Mitsubishi servicer to come to your home and replace the DMD chip. Mitsubishi will supply the part (part # 276P595010) for free, but you must pay $200 in labor. BUT...if you ask for Shantell Hebert when you call Mitsubishi, and really push the issue, she will also pay half of the $200 labor fee, so you go from $400 to repair to only $100. Once that chip is replaced, the unit works great again!!

your model uses the Mitsubishi 915061010 Lamp assembly with housing which is available from www.tvrepairworld.com under the Mitsubishi DLP Lamp category. The lamp comes with installation instructions and is a simple plug in , It includes the housing so you dont need to remove the old bulb from your housing to reuse since the new lamp already has the housing with it.

The DM board is the primary reason for this symptom. Mitsubishi is not making this part available anymore. There are 4 capacitors that fail in a power supply circuit with in the DM module. If you want to see if the capacitors are causing the problem, follow this procedure.
Remove the power from the set.
Remove the back of the set.
Remove the chassis screws, (black wood screws) from each side and one in the center next to the ac plug restraint holder along the back part of the plastic frame.
Gently pull up on each tab at each end of the plastic tray then pull back the tray. If any of the wire harnesses are pulling tight, undo the plug connectors. Once the tray is pulled out six to eight inches, the upright shielded board on your far left should be clear of the cabinet housing. There are two screws, on on each side of the shield at the bottom that must be removed.
Once the screws are removed, pull up gently on the shielded board and it should detach from the signal board.
Remove the small screws around the the EII inputs and slide the board out of the shield cover. Once the cover is removed, you should be able to see the capacitors with the tops popped up. These are the ones you replace. Be gentle with replacing them and note the direction of the negative leg. It goes to the hole that has a dotted circle. Once all four are replace, reverse the diassembly. It is easier to install the board first making sure the board is correctly in the board slot before sliding the shield over top of it. reinstall the mounting screws for the board shield , reinstall all the plug connectors that were undone, then slid the chassis tray back in place. Verify one more time the all plug connectors are installed, especially any of the high voltage plugs.
Once the set is plugged in, the green led should blink for about 30 seconds or so. when it stops blinking, turn the set on.
I hope this helps,
Skyassoc

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What you have to do is simple.
1. Remove the battery cover, battery and SIM
2. Use the screwdriver or tweezers to gently pry off the RF grommet located on the antenna cap (below)

• Removing the antenna cover:
  3. Carefully use the flat end of the tweezers to release two latches on the top end of the antenna cover, then carefully lift the antenna cover away from the phone.

• Removing the transceiver PC board shield:
  4.Using the T5 screwdriver, remove the 6 housing screws from the phone. Set the screws aside for re-use (see Figure 10).
  5.Lift the metal shield away from the phone.

• Removing the housing:
  6. Insert the plastic shim between the front housing and the chassis assembly. Slide the plastic shim around the phone between the front housing and the phone to release the housing catches along the sides of the front housing

• Removing the housing:
  7. Carefully lift the bottom end of the front housing over the phone. The earpiece will still be connecting the front cover to the rest of the phone at the top of the phone so be careful

• Removing the earpiece speaker from the front housing:
  8. Use the plastic shim or tweezers to separate the earpiece speaker from the front housing

• Removing the LCD screen:
  9. Use the tweezers to release the display module assembly latch located at the side of the display module

• Removing the LCD screen:
  10. Lift up the top edge of the display module
  11. Carefully thread the display flex cable through the slot in the chassis assembly and lift the display module away from the chassis
  

Replace the old screen with new an

d reverse the whole procedure for reassembly


Take care

If you get White or black dots all over the screen (DMD symptom)
If you get a pixilated picture (DMD Board)

I just changed my starter recently, when you look at the starter its in a very tight spot. Loosen the transmission lines running right under the starter. As your laying under your suv you will see 2 lines running right under your starter, just follow the 2 lines toward the engine and you will see a small bracket that holds them together. Losen the screw and wala you now have several inches of play now that u you can move the lines out of the way, this will grant you ease in getting the starter in and out. This was my first time changing my starter and i had the car for 11 years ^_^ I changed it in 2-3hrs remember to disconect your battery also before you begin ^_^