No electric output, how do I diagnose, capacitor, proper winding check etc.
Pulled panel and unplugged, started generator and and checked for power at harness plug directly, ( 4 wire )
it has 0 voltage output. checked brushes, brushes are good at over 80% remaining, pulled end off of generator, physical inspection of wires and plugs, all good, did ohms reading at both inner and outer windings at plugs, ( 4 wire outer ) ( 3 wire ) inner, have infinite continuity with no resistance on 20k scale. could it be capacitor,?
Re: no electric output, how do I diagnose, capacitor,...
Have you tried flashing your generator? Sometimes the magnets in the generator loose their polarity. Google and YouTube "flashing a generator" HFLASHING the GEN
Sometimes the magnets lose their polarity. This worked on my brothers $1200 gen. Its worth a try. Good luck! Check all wires/connections first, Then try this- (Remove spark plug wire first!) To flash the field on a small home use generator, get an ext. cord & cut off the female end of it & strip the wires & connect the wires to a 12 volt car or lawn tractor battery, & plug the male end of the cord, into the 120 A.C. side of the generator.
Make SURE that the black wire which is POS/HOT on an A.C. cord, gets connected to the RED/POS. side of the auto battery, & the white wire on A.C. cord gets connected to the BLK./NEG. side of the battery. If the ext. cord wires are not black & white, then the smaller prong of the plug is the POS./HOT
Plug the other end of the ext. cord into the generators 120 volt side (**remove spark plug wire**) & pull the starter cord 4-5 times, then remove the ext. cord, reconnect the spark plug wire, start the unit & plug something of 120 A.C. volts in to see if it works. Then let it run for about a half hour with 2 - 150 watt lights to help re-generate the unit.
Read more:http://www.doityourself.com/forum/outdoor-gasoline-power-equipment-small-engines/188605-recharging-generator-field.html#ixzz29QwjlAOWere's one way-
thanks for the help. yeo i tried that, managed to get 1 volt output to each leg. thats been it. i checked on parts availability, and most everything has been discontinued, there is the capacitor and one diode available.thanks for the help. yeo i tried that, managed to get 1 volt output to each leg. thats been it. i checked on parts availability, and most everything has been discontinued, there is the capacitor and one diode available.
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If you're comfortable with taking the juicer apart and have some technical experience, here are some additional steps you can take to diagnose and repair the issue:
Check the power supply: Use a multimeter to check the voltage output of the power supply. If the voltage is lower than what is required by the juicer, the motor won't receive enough power to start. Replace the power supply if necessary.
Check the motor capacitor: The motor capacitor helps to start the motor and keep it running. If the capacitor is faulty, the motor won't start. You can test the capacitor with a multimeter to see if it's working properly. If it's not, replace the capacitor.
Check the motor windings: The motor windings can become damaged or burned out, which will prevent the motor from starting. You can test the windings with a multimeter to see if there is continuity between them. If there isn't, you may need to replace the motor.
Check the switch: The switch can become faulty, preventing power from reaching the motor. Use a multimeter to test the switch for continuity. If it's not working properly, replace the switch.
Check the fuse: Some juicers have a fuse that can blow out if there is a power surge or other electrical issue. Check the fuse with a multimeter to see if it's blown. If it is, replace the fuse.
If you feel the above cannot help , I strongly believe it will help, you can consider replacing with a cheaper one like:
Based on the information provided, it seems that the generator is producing voltage but not delivering it to the connected devices. Here are a few troubleshooting steps you can try:
Check the circuit breakers: Make sure the circuit breakers on the generator are not tripped. If they are, reset them and try again.
Check the connections: Ensure that all the connections between the generator and the devices you are trying to power are secure and not loose.
Check the voltage regulator: The voltage regulator controls the output voltage of the generator. If it is faulty, it may not be allowing voltage to pass through to the connected devices. You may need to have it tested or replaced.
Check the automatic voltage regulator (AVR): If your generator has an AVR, it may be malfunctioning and preventing power from reaching the connected devices.
Check the capacitor: While a visual inspection may not always be enough to detect a faulty capacitor, it is worth checking it with a capacitor tester to make sure it is functioning properly.
Check the wiring: Inspect the wiring for any signs of damage, such as frayed or broken wires. If you find any, you will need to repair or replace the affected wires.
If none of these steps resolve the issue, you may need to consult with a qualified technician to diagnose and fix the problem.
Why do you assume you need a new capacitor? Sometimes you may have to re-excite the windings on the generator which is simple and I'd try it first. Take a power drill, plug it into the panel on your generator and turn the chuck on the drill by hand or use another cordless drill to spin the plugged in drill for about 5-10 seconds. Unplug the drill and start your generator. Chances are you'll produce the power you are looking for.
all the operator can ck on this if ckt breaker is closed on genset panel , this controls output power to all the outlets on genset , if that's not to be found as cause then a qualified serviceman will be needed to further diagnose problem
No wiring diagram available from Briggs. Try re-magnetizing the rotor. No AVR or Capacitor listed in the parts list.
Disconnect the wires to brushes ( pay attention to the order) and apply 12vdc to brushes. Positive goes to brush closest to the bearing. Start the generator and check for output. If output is normal run the unit a few minutes to ensure re-magnetization then shut down normally. After shut down disconnect the 12 vdc source and re-install the previous disconnected wires. Now re start the generator and test for output should be okay provide there is no problems with the alternator. If no output during the above re-magnetization then your rotor windings my burned out.
Open the control panel and inspect the wiring for hot spots. Fluctuating output power is usually caused by a capacitor wire being loose or a "cooked" capacitor from leaking wax and finally failing. If you see the capacitor is swollen or appears to be leaking candle wax, replace it For sure inspect all of the capacitor wires for any signs of head or looseness all the way down to the generator stator. Most capacitor wires are yellow but that is not always the case. Locate the wires and physically follow them from the capacitor to the diode and back to the generator stator winding looking for loose, chaffed or hot wires. DO NOT cut anything loose in the stator area. Just inspect unless you know you have a repair to do.
Also.... check the wires on the output switch / CB for the same thing (loose, chaffed, or hot) Since you said it works for about 10 - 15 minutes I am pretty sure you have cooking wires or a bad capacitor inside the control panel just from my over 40 years of past experience as a repair tech.
First you must clean it all, especialy the generator, windings, AVR etc. if it was wet with sea water (better do it with fresh water or electro-clean, than other liquids). Then you should dry it well (with a hot blower) for about, but not less than 24 hours, before starting.
If you already started it wet, or it got wet while running, you may have some parts burned, with low insulation of cables, windings etc. Check the AVR, rings and brushes (if any) and other electronic boards for visualy burned elements or check the semiconductor elements (diodes and transistors) for proper qualities.
You should check the gen. windings insulation resistence to hull (gen. iron) [all stator and rotor windings]. It should be more than 100 kOhm in order to let you start the generator motor.
When dry and clean, with no burned elements you can start the engine. If it reaches its normal speed - measure the voltage on generator terminals, if it is OK check the connections (breakers, fuses) to the distribution panel. If it is very low under 30 V AC, the problem may be in AVR (Auto Voltage Reg. - Field DC supply)
If the voltage is under 10 V AC, you may need to recharge the magnetic field with a 12 V battery connected shortly to field terminals - +/- respected.
If you fulfil these instructions and you need more help, please ask as an answer to this solution or on my e-mail: [email protected]. Please give some information about your generator: is it 5ECD, 5EKD or some other - then give some more details about it.
1) Bad connection at the outlets themselves (loose wire) regarding neutral, hot wires.
2) Bad Excitation Capacitor. The Exc. Cap. is responsible for energizing the field wiring of the alternator. If the field is not energized, there will not be a magnetic field developed, therefore, no electrical output.
3) Open Field / Stator winding. If Field winding is open, no magnetic field will be developed. If Stator winding is open, no voltage will be induced.
4) Generator speed is too slow. If the RPMs of the engine are too slow, the output of the alternator will fail as well. Note that from normal speed, voltage output will occur but at reducing frequency until ouput ceases altogether, usually at about 47Hz. If your alternator is a 2 pole, engine speed should be 3600 rpm nominal. If alternator is a 4 pole (most aren't), engine speed would need to be about 1800 rpm nominal.
5) Generator speed too fast. If RPMs are too fast, output may fail as well. See above.
6) Excitation Fuse has blown. There is sometimes a fuse in the excitation circuit. To check this, you will likely need to pull the end housing off the alternator. Pay attention to bearings / bushings.
There was a day and time when generators were simple. There were no capacitors, regulators to control/adjust power to magnet or ground fault outlets. Winding getting hot indicates short, however could be bad capacitors. Rectifiers and capacitors must be removed from circuit to test properly. Here is a simple test that I use to find fault area. I use a small power supply (16v AC 1 amp like doorbell transformer) into the 110v outlet of generator. This should energize the armature magnet and actually produce voltage at commutator with brushes pulled off. You can slowly pull the starter rope to move the armature into a different positon the voltage will vary. If the ac windings are shorted there will be very little or no magnet. There is a seperate 110 v circuit at the 220v outlet to test (there are two 110v windings that make up the 220v outlet, one is also used for the 110v outlet). There is another winding that products voltage for the regulator that powers the magnet thru the brushes but I think that circuit is porbably working because of the heat in the windings. You might even have 110v power at the 220v outlet. As our parents told us over and over, be careful when working with electricity. Enjoy
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