- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I have had to change the door switch on every washer and drier I have ever had. Just a thought: If the door switch is bad the drier and washer will not start working. The one I changed on my drier about a month ago, when I opened the door and played with the switch while pushing the start button it finally came on. I changed the switch and no more problems. If the door is open the dryer and washer are not supposed to operate. I have changed some which you could not move around on those I would pull the wires off the door switch. Depending on if the switch is normally open or closed I would connect the two wire and try to start or leave them separate and try to start..
To open it up to check the thermal fuse,the top pops up..to pop up the top use a putty knife and place it between the top and the top of the front panel at the corners and depress a clip on each corner that holds the top to the front panel. Once the top is up the thermal fuse can be found on the right side of the housing where the heat element goes...that housing where the element is mouted to the rear of the plate that supports the rear of the drum at the top,the thermal fuse will be on the right side of the heater housing about 3-4 inches down on that housing..if memory serves me their is 2 white wires connected to the thermal fuse and to check it disconnect those wires and check the thermal fuse for continuity with zero ohms resistiance...if it has a open circuit its will be bad
The part number for that thermal fuse is LA-1053 it also comes with the high limit t-stat which you will see on top of the heat element and it to should be replaced when replacing the thermal fuse
You state you had a short in the home. Since the washer is on 110V system, you can try a different outlet and see if the machine works. Although you state that it isn't on the same part of the panel as the washer/dryer, and the dryer works, the dryer is on a different breaker, and it may indeed have had some effect on the panel that hooks to the washer. Try my first option, and let me know how you make out. I believe you'll find that to be the trouble
UNPLUG THE MACHINE. Take the back off the dryer, usually 4 to 6 screws. On the backside of the panel you just took off should be a schematic showing where the thermo fuses are.
Take an ohm meter and check across the prongs sticking up, you may have to unplug them to get good contact. They should show 1, open, if they show 0, short. they need replaced. There are online parts companies that can help you get the right part.
It is unlikely that the element is bad, but if the thermo fuses show open, then you should be able to see the element, and replace it.
there is a fuse behind the on/off switch but to get to it you need to open the top then the control panel with special tool and you can check the fuse there is another fuse on the bottom left corner of the unit behind the transformator. good luck
In order to test the element, you will need an ohm meter. It should test at 8 - 12 ohms. If it is not the element, it could be any of you other thermostats, here's a rundown: thermal fuse. It is white and about an inch and a half long and had two wires going into it. Thermal cuttoffs, one is right next to the element, and the other is further above the element. If one of these is bad, you will need to replace them both. the last is the thermostat with heat anticipator. this thermostat will have four wires going into it and is located right next to your thermal fuse. To test any of these thermostats unplug the wires leading to them and test each lead with your ohm meter, if you have steady numbers or 'countdown' it is fine, move on to the next. once you reach one that reads 'ol' or 'open line' that is the thermostat that is bad. Good luck and happy fixin'!
Mj, 90% of the time long dry times are caused by a pinched or clogged vent. Other things that could be causing this are: cycling thermostat trips too soon, if your dryer is a gas model, weak gas valve coils, drive motor centrifugal switch not allowing voltage to the gas valve or heating element. Check the harness to the motor to make sure it is on tight. Catriver...post back.