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Your experiencing symptoms of clutch malfunction with the FAV6800AW.Do you want to dive in and try to fix?Here is what is involved to pull the clutch out of your machine.Also read the last couple of post in this forum.If you call a repair service in your are looking at $300 +.If you can DIY the repair cost could be from $10 dollars if you just need a roller clutch clean up and re-lube to $50 -140 for a replacement clutch.I'm cheap and would go for the $50 Clutch. What is the serial number of your machine?Just need the first two digits i.e. 10, 12, 14, 16. This info is located on the top right back side of the console.
Next comment will be the clutch removal process, this board has message limits.
Have not heard back about the clarification request. Your in the Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer so I'll post some pics of my FAV6800A with the fornt cover removed. This is a series 17 machine I picked up on ebay and refurb (Clutch Maintenance no parts required).
This a pic of my Series 10 machine I have the Outer Tub removed for a recent Out Tub bearing replacement and Spinner Assembly bearing replacement.It will show the Motor Controller on the left and the Drain Pump/Drain Line and the pressures switch sitting on top of the Drain Pump on the right.
If you have questions any and all issues with the machine just post back. Rich
Tom, I’m a owner and I do all my own repairs on the FAV6800AW.Usually the One-Way roller clutches get a touch of rust and become sticky.If it’s not to bad and the One-way roller clutches can be cleaned up ya might be good to go.Worse case replace with this Clutch.In your case I believe you are leaking transmission oil. The only place the oil can come from and not containment the wash tub/wash basket would be from the transmission in the area of where the agitator shaft spline engages the female spline in the transmission.Pic attached; Female Spline on tranny;
Agitator Shaft Spline;
Transmission mounted to Spinner plate;
I believe the transmission seal is preventing oil from reaching the tub/wash basket…. That’s my WAG having not experienced this type of failure. How much oil are we talking about?Have you looked at this postregarding clean/re-lube of the One-Way roller clutches in the clutch pulley and the upper One-Way clutch roller assembly if you series FAV6800AW is equipped with?How do the roller clutches look?They should spin freely Clockwise and lock up in the Counter Clockwise direction. We have to nail down the tranny oil leak and clean up the roller clutches if possible or replace the Clutch.
From the service manual page 40; NOTE: A small amount of oil under the transmission is normal. Sounds like you have a lot of oil contamination. BACK
Good luck and let me know if I can help. Rich aka dh1200s LEFT=
Hello leaweber, Yes most times it is a Clutch malfunction .Is the machine failing with “dc” and or “UC” unbalance error codes in spin cycle?If you are you may have a Clutch malfunction or Tub Displacement Sensor failure more likely a Clutch issue. You can do a quick TDS sensor check thru the lid just follow this from the Service Manual.If you machine will pass the TDS check the next step would be to remove the clutch from the machine and inspect as I describe in this post. Tub Displacement Sensor check from the SM slightly modified; Tub Displacement Sensor Diagnostics check.This test is done with the washer lid raised see page 19 for the details. It is possible the Tub Displacement Sensor may have failed try this check which is in the Troubleshooting guide stored in your washer console or refer to the SM.
a. Enter the Service Mode by pressing and holding the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys for three seconds or the display reads “00”
b. Press the Super Wash key display reads “in”…something like that.
c. Press Delicates the Display will show “UC” (Unbalance Closed).
d. Push tub to the back right corner of the machine the display should change to “UO” (Unbalance open). Release tub and the display will show “UC” (Unbalance Closed).
e. Press Hand Wash.
f. Pull tub to the front left corner while pushing the tub down the display should change to “UO” (Unbalance open). Release tub and the display will show “UC” (Unbalance Closed).
If you get these results your TDS sensor should be just fine. Time to look at a clutch repair/replacement. Let me know if you need help…. Rich aka dh1200s
Hey mhjw3, I’m guessing the machine type is a FAV6800AW or FAV9800AW and you are failing with dc and or UC errors to the console in spin cycle.Is that correct?If you have DIY skills see this Post. and the second post for the step by step to repair the clutch in the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW. Also look at the post I just replied to.From limited info I feel your are experiencing a clutch malfunction with your washer.If you want to dive in and can tolerate some down time I will try to help you DIY the fix.If a DIY fix is not your choice you can run the info in the post by a repair service and get a repair estimate so you can reach a decision point to repair or replace.If this is a clutch issue most DIY folks choose to DIY the repair and save big $.Post back if you have questions.
Hello gwatson01, Wondering if you could rate my clarification request as a solution?I joined this forum as a owner DIY’er to help other owners.The machine is just too expensive to junk and as you found fairly easy to work on.As a forum member as you I receive no compensation for my support to other owners.Thank you in advance for your support.Rich My solution; I’m an owner/DIY’er of the machine.Please take a look at this post and see if your mechanical noise may be coming from underneath the tumblers, maybe some coins grinding around under the tumblers.If you think it is take a look at the service manual link in that post.It will take you thru the tumbler removal process, see if you feel comfortable with the process, the manual does not call out a #20 Torx driver is required to remove the tumbler. If you think the grinding noise is very metallic and not muffled by a tub of water the grinding noise may be coming from the transmission/clutch area and removing the machine front vertical cover will be necessary to better sound isolate the suspect area of the machine. Do you feel OK to remove the front panel?If so see this post. The 1st link I sent you to shows that this owner had issues after the coin removal.I would also like you try a Spin Only cycle with no clothes in the wash basket.Can you let me know if that cycle runs with no noise?We can’t totally rule out an issue with the clutch/transmission components with the info supplied so far.To help you remotely diagnose this issue detail information is needed.Let’s try to sound isolate the grinding noise source location.Follow all safety rules in the Service Manual.If you don’t feel comfortable to proceed I would recommend you call in a qualified FAV6800AWW repair service for support.
About 2 hr's with a couple coffee breaks and not reseating the clutch pulley properly on the first couple of tries. I'm sure other forum members did it a bit quicker then me. Here is what I posted....
“”I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors in the spin cycle, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove the clutch pulley. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 4 yr old $1k machine with out trying a fix. If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found a link on this site, good luck!””
This will help you trouble shoot issues with this machine. I removed my clutch and lubed needle berings in the clutch pully and that took care of my issue of DC/UC errors in spin cycle. Here is a quick note on my repair action.
I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors in the spin cycle, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove clutch pulley. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 4 yr old $1k machine with out trying a fix. If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found it online and I believe you can order it in PDF format from Maytag. Good luck!
I just went thru my 10th load of a mix of light, medium and heavy loads and all work fine no unbalance errors (DC/UC). Doesn’t fix the tangle problem :) Prior to this fix I could only run the washer with no clothes in it to complete a spin cycle with no dc/uc error codes.
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