I need to know what size front sprocket to put on my bike to go with my 13 tooth free will to be the equivalent gear ratio of 2.75 which would be from my 25 tooth sprocket and my 9 tooth driver

Table of Contents Removal Installation Print Options Print Text Only Print Text and images Print Camshaft, Replace Removal 1. Bring lock carrier into service position as follows: a. Remove radiator grille. b. Remove upper bolts (2), Fig. 1. c. Remove quick release screw (6) from below, Fig. 1. d. Remove bolts (5 and 4) pointing upward in area of wheel housing liner, Fig. 1. e. With aid from an assistant, pull cover parallel out of guides. f. Disconnect harness connectors of installed electrical components and hoses. g. Remove noise insulation. h. Remove intake air duct between lock carrier (1) and air cleaner housing at lock carrier, Fig. 2. i. Remove bolt (5) on bumper carrier (4) and install guide rods tool No. 3411, or equivalent, (6) on righthand and lefthand longitudinal member, Fig. 2. j. Remove bolts (2 and 3), Fig. 2. k. Lock carrier (1) can be pulled approximately .39 inch toward front onto guide rods tool No. 3411, (2), Fig. 3. 2. Remove upper toothed belt guard. 3. Bring camshaft gear to marking for TDC cylinder 1 by turning crankshaft. Marking on camshaft gear must be flush with marking on cylinder head cover, Fig. 4. 4. Loosen tensioner and remove toothed belt from camshaft sprocket. 5. Turn crankshaft back slightly. 6. Remove camshaft sprocket. To loosen bolt, counter hold camshaft gear using tool No. 3036, or equivalent. 7. Remove hall sensor housing. 8. Remove washer and cover for hall sensor. 9. Clean drive chain and camshaft chain sprockets across from both arrows on bearing caps and mark installed position with a color marking. Do not mark chain using a center punch or similar means. Distance between both arrows or colored markings consists of 16 rollers of drive chain, Fig. 5. 10. Secure camshaft adjuster or chain tensioner using bracket for chain adjustment tool No. 3366, or equivalent. If chain tensioner retainer is fastened too tightly, chain tensioner or camshaft adjuster can be damaged, Fig. 6. 11. First remove bearing caps 3 and 5 from intake and exhaust camshafts, Fig. 7. 12. Remove double bearing cap. 13. Remove both bearing caps from chain gears on intake and exhaust camshafts. 14. Remove securing bolts of camshaft adjuster/chain tensioner. 15. Alternating in diagonal sequence, loosen bearing caps 2 and 4 of intake and exhaust camshafts and remove. 16. Remove intake and exhaust camshaft, chain tensioner or camshaft adjuster and chain tensioner retainer tool No. 3366, or equivalent. Installation When installing the camshafts, cam lobes for cylinder 1 must point upward. When installing bearing caps, verify marking on cap is readable from intake side of cylinder head. 1. When reusing old drive chain, mount drive chain according to color markings onto both camshafts. When using a new drive chain, distance between notches (A) and (B) must be 16 rollers on chain, Fig. 8. Illustration shows where first and sixteenth drive chain rollers must be installed on chain gears. 2. Notch (A) is slightly offset inward toward chain roller (1), Fig. 8. 3. Replace rubber/metal seal for camshaft adjuster or chain tensioner and coat hatched surface with thin coat of sealant D 454 300 A2, or equivalent, Fig. 9. 4. Insert camshaft adjuster/chain tensioner between drive chain. 5. Oil running surfaces of both camshafts. 6. Insert camshafts with drive chain and camshaft adjuster/chain tensioner into cylinder head. 7. Tighten camshaft adjuster/chain tensioner to specification, pay attention to bushing. 8. Alternating in diagonal sequence, tighten bearing caps 2 and 4 of intake and exhaust camshafts and tighten to specification, pay attention to bushing, Fig. 7. 9. Install both bearing caps on gears on intake and exhaust camshafts. Inspect camshaft for proper adjustment (arrows) and tighten bearing cap to specification, pay attention to alignment bushing, Fig. 10. 10. Remove chain tensioner/camshaft adjuster tool No. 3366, or equivalent. 11. Coat hatched surfaces of double bearing cap lightly using sealant D 454 300 A2, or equivalent, install and tighten to specification, pay attention to bushing, Fig. 11. 12. Install remaining bearing caps and tighten to specification, pay attention to alignment bushing. 13. Install camshaft gear, thin rib toward outside (arrows) and TDC marking visible and tighten screw to specification, use retainer tool No. 3036, or equivalent, Fig. 12. 14. Inspect setting of camshafts to each other. 15. After installing camshafts, engine may not be started for approximately 30 minutes. Hydraulic adjusting elements must seat themselves, otherwise valves will seat themselves on pistons. 16. Pistons must not be positioned at TDC. Ensure that crankshaft is still positioned before cylinder 1 TDC. 17. Align marking on camshaft sprocket with marking on cylinder head cover. 18. Place toothed belt onto crankshaft sprocket, observe direction of rotation. 19. Install lower toothed belt guard. 20. Install vibration damper/belt pulley with new bolts. Tighten to specification. 21. Turn crankshaft to set cylinder 1 at TDC. 22. Place toothed belt on in this order coolant pump, tensioning roller and camshaft gear. 23. Tension toothed belt as follows: a. If toothed belt tensioner is completely driven out, it must be pressed back by tensioner roller when installed. This procedure can last approximately five minutes. Pressing together with too much force can damage tensioner roller. b. Turn eccentric pulley counterclockwise using tensioning device tool No. 3387, or equivalent, tab (A) of eccentric pulley must not be bent, until tensioning device locking tool No. T10008, or equivalent, can be pulled free of stress, Fig. 13. c. Rotate eccentric pulley clockwise direction of (arrow) until a drill bit (2) with dimension (a) .31 inch, can be pulled through between tensioning lever and housing of tensioning device, Fig. 14. 24. Turn over crankshaft twice and inspect if markings on camshaft and crankshaft still align with their reference points. 25. Inspect dimension (a) .24-.39 inch between tensioning lever and housing of tensioning device using a drill bit (2), Fig. 14. 26. If dimension (a) is not obtained, release tension of toothed belt and tension it again. 27. Install upper and center toothed belt guards. 28. Install tensioner for serpentine belt. Tighten to specification. 29. Install serpentine belt. When installing serpentine belt, ensure that belt is seated correctly in belt pulleys. 30. Place torque wrench tool No. V.A.G 1331, or equivalent, in seven o'clock position and tighten A/C compressor belt tensioner to specification. Hold torque wrench securely and tighten bolts (A) to specification, Fig. 15. 31. Install lock carrier. 32. Install front bumper. 33. Tighten fasteners to specification. 34. Fill cooling system with coolant.

• Fig. 1 Front bumper removal
• Fig. 2 Lock carrier disconnection
• Fig. 3 Lock carrier service position
• Fig. 4 Camshaft sprocket alignment
• Fig. 5 Camshaft drive chain marking location
• Fig. 6 Camshaft drive chain tensioner securing location
• Fig. 7 Camshaft bearing cap removal
• Fig. 8 Camshaft installation
• Fig. 9 Camshaft chain tensioner seal installation
• Fig. 10 Camshaft installation mark alignment
• Fig. 11 Double bearing cap installation
• Fig. 12 Camshaft gear installation
• Fig. 13 Toothed belt tensioning device release
• Fig. 14 Toothed belt tensioning device
• Fig. 15 Air conditioning compressor belt installation

If you want a picture of one of the fig, let me know which one, there are several pictures. All I'm doing is copying out of my database.

36 tooth
36 / 13 = 2.77 ratio
25 / 9 = 2.77 ratio

14 - 41 = 2.93 ratio
15 - 46 = 3.06 ratio..
6-7 links.. you need to move the axle all the way forward when installing a new chain... (it will stretch!) moving the axle all the way forward gives you plenty of adjustment later!!

Gear it down a bit with a larger rear sprocket and a smaller front sprocket. Put a 13 tooth front sprocket on.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/tc250-gearing.10683/

Online documentation for the Honda X4 appears to be somewhat scarce, but the engine was also used with little or no modification in the Honda CB1300, although that configuration used slightly different gear ratios that produced less low-end torque but lower engine RPMs at cruising speed. Specifications for the CB1300, including gear ratios for the configuration of the engine and transmission as used in that bike, can be found here:

http://www.hondacb1300.net/cb1300specs.htm

Other than swapping CB1300 transmission gears for your X4 set, I am not aware of the general availability of custom transmission gears for your bike's transmission, and I suspect that they might have to be custom fabricated by a precision machine shop.

In contrast, a simpler and much cheaper solution to reducing your highway speed engine RPM would be to tinker with the forward and rear sprocket sizes for your chain drive. Adjusting one or both of these sprockets by even a single tooth (larger in the front, smaller in the back) can have a noticeable effect on the cruising RPMs. Sprockets, being normal wear and tear items, are available in a variety of sizes in the aftermarket, and you should be able to find a variety of sprockets that fit your bike. I would suggest that you start with this, as this modification is both vastly cheaper than rebuilding your transmission and easily reversible if you're dissatisfied with the results.

apart from the obvious check air filter is clean spark plug is good and your pilot jet in carb is all clear form dirt or gummed fuel my next step would be put a tooth or two bigger rear sprocket on it to lower the gear ratio this will give more torque low speed maybe whilst you looking at the sprocket just check that some has not change the front to smaller sprocket it being few years old some one may have set to get more top end speed and sacrificed all the low end??

You can add teeth to the front sprocket or take teeth off of the rear sprocket. In the case of your bike , I do not think there is a 17 tooth front available so your best option would be to shorten your chain and drop from the 44 tooth rear sprocket to 40 tooth or a 36 tooth rear sprocket. That would be like adding one or two teeth to the front sprocket. Your stock is 16/44 so decrease from there. Be sure to ID your chain, get a chain breaker, and a new master link.

Usually, it seems that changing the front sprocket is more cost effective and easier to do. The front sprockets are about $10-$20 and rears are normally around $40-$50. Usually 1T gearing changes made to the front sprocket are the equivilant of a 3T-4T gearing change to the rear. I personally would go up on the front instead of down on the rear. Right now your gear ratio is 3.846 (meaning every 3.846 rotations of the front sprocket, the rear sprocket makes 1 rotation) If you go down 2T in the rear (13/48) your gear ratio would be 3.692 giving you a little less torque and a little more top end. If you go Up 1T in the front (14/50) your gear ratio would be 3.571. This would be about the equivilant of a 46.5T rear sprocket. (If they made it) The nice thing about doing the front sprocket first is the cost. If you decide it's too much difference and you want something in between, you can put the stock 13 back on and then change the rear (and you would only be out the $$ for the front sprocket) If you start with the rear and decide it's not enough then you change the front you're out the $$ for the rear.