Question about Dream Maker Spas Dream Maker Spa - Fantasy Sandstone with Cover

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I have a DreamMaker Fantasy Spa. It recently started flashing "OH" (Overheat) on the topside control pad. When tested, the water temperature was 91 degrees. I unplugged the tub and let it set for 5

I cleaned the filter and tried resetting the tub several times. I've also purchased a pool thermometer to more accurately monitor the water temperature. The topside control is not locked or in economy/sleep modes- I checked that as well.

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Very likely your Temperature sensor has failed.

Posted on Mar 10, 2015


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How old is it maybe motor OH

Posted on Feb 02, 2015

  • 2 more comments 
  • Justin Gardner
    Justin Gardner Feb 02, 2015

    minutes or so. Upon plugging it back in, it appeared to work as normal for a day. Once it heated back up, it continued to run past the set temp of 102, until it surpassed the safety limit of 108 and reverted to "OH" mode. Sometimes it will continue to run/heat beyond this point and sometimes it will not. Either way, the topside control is unresponsive once it starts to flash "OH".

  • Justin Gardner
    Justin Gardner Feb 02, 2015

    (For some reason, it cut off most of the original question.)

  • Justin Gardner
    Justin Gardner Feb 02, 2015

    It's 2 years old. Why would the motor make the water temperature fluctuate so dramatic/erratically?

  • Mike Tellegen Mar 11, 2015

    The motor will not create a readable error code on the topside control panel of OH. If the motor overheats it will turn off itself, and then the error code will be FLO, because it won't communicate with the circuit board logic. The board is still sending power to the motor, but it is off, therefore the flow switch will communicate to the board that the flow had stopped.



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Salt, Calcium and Cyanuric Acid are the only 'chemicals' which are persistent in your pool. Translation: you can't adjust them downward with another chemical. To reduce these 'chemicals', you must change the 'contaminated' water with new, 'uncontaminated' water. Do you know what the natural calcium level is in your 'fill water'? It is doubtful your fill water had cyanuric acid or salt. If you have high calcium levels in your fill water, (check your fill water with your pool tester)(BTW, I recommend a Taylor K-1005 or better for your pool testing needs. I dont care for the strips) you will have to import low calcium water. (Oh yes, there will be splash out and you will carry out water on your bathing suit - this will remove these three chemicals from the water. Evaporation does not affect these chemicals, however.

Where does the cyanuric acid come from? You put it in. Why? Because the chlorine you make is un protected. The UV will eat it almost as fast as you can make it. Of course, if this is an inside pool, you will not add it to the water. Chlorine in tablet or grandular form comes with cyanuric acid built in - it is called stabiliser.

Preferred calcuim level for a salt water pool is around 300 though the acceptible range tops out at 1000. In a high calcium condition, the water will start throwing the calcium onto the walls of anything it can, like your salt water power cells, walls of your pool, where ever it can stick. Cyanuric acid can be as much as 100 but 80 is better. Many salt systems like to operate around 3400 to 3600 ppm. Check with your manufaturer for the actual salt level.

I don't know if calcium can be deposited to the walls of your filter and plastic piping. If you have metal piping, you have several problems, first, the water eats the metal all by itself with no help. You have salt in the water and that just helps the water eat the pipe faster. When there is metal in the water, that metal has to be removed - it goes into the filters onto the walls of everything it can stick to. You can use a sequestering agent to help remove the metal ... but it is just a matter of time until the pipes will fail. Second part of the metal problem, the metal and the calcium will stick to the plates of your salt generator cell. This restricts the water flow, reduces the amount of chlorine that cam be generated and it is very tuff on the plates. You can scrape the stuff off the cells and you can acid wash the cells (25% muratic acid 75% water) but this is not good for the long life of your cells either. Follow the package directions for the sequestering agent. It works best when there is little chlorine present, BTW

You stated you have DE filters. These are probably the best type of filter to have as they remove the smallest particles. However, they also require higher maintenance and they are also metal. I had a hot tub with a DE filter. During periods of high use, I might get as little as 2 weeks use from a freshly cleaned filter. I changed that for a sand filter. I still exceed the state turn over rate by 50% (Turn over rate is the time to filter all the water in the pool - 4 hours for a hot tub - 8 hours for a pool - your pool is private and probably does not have to meet any commercial standard) and I back wash only when the pressure goes up 10 pounds from normal operating pressure. My hot tub sparkles and is no longer a high maintenance item. The leaves of a DE filter look pretty gross when they are clean, BTW. The DE of course is a mud like product when it is wet. It coats the leaves and as you force the water through, it traps everythiung down to 50 microns. When you wash it off it is really gross looking. BTW - some say DE is dangerous when it is dry in the same manner that asbestos is dangerous (there is no evidence to support this at this time) ... HOWEVER - DO NOT BREATH IT before or after its use.

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