I have experienced a machine doing this it was caused by the outlet hose pipe not alined it was syphoning water intermittently so check the hose outlet. 2nd
the wash heater may be open circuit causing the wash cycle to stop, the timer is then manually turned to continue washing .3rd check the pressure switch hose for blockage by taking it off the switch and blowing down to clear any blockage.
SOURCE: duet Washing Machine spin cycle is spinning slow
make sure u are not under loading the washer with just one or two items and that the load is fairly balanced or else the machine will not go into high speed spin as to not go completely off balance and walk across your floor if that doesnt fix it you might need a new ccu or motor control board probably the second one and make sure u are using HE detergent and not too much because suds will lock the pump up which will not spin with water in the unit
SOURCE: washing machine not working
I just had the same problem. In my case, a pen cap was stuck in the impeller of the drain pump and prevented it from working. To access the drain pump remove the lower kick panel on the washer by removing (3) Torx drive screws. Make sure you get the water out of your tub before working on the pump or it will spill out on the floor. The pump is front & center. First check the clean-out filter for blockage by turning the big knob on the front of the pump. If that doesn't appear to be the problem, you can take the pump out by removing (1) screw and disconnecting (2) hoses and the electrical connector. The pump itself consists a white housing and a black motor assembly. Remove the motor assembly by removing (3) screws. This is where you will see the impeller and and item that may be preventing it from turning. Besides dealing with the water, the most difficult part of repair is reconnecting the hoses using the hose clamps. Best of luck! RDam
SOURCE: Whirlpool Calypso Washing Machine
I have the same washer. Over the past weeks I have had all sorts of error codes. In no particular order, I've had: CA, CI, ld, ob, and SL. Had a repair guy come out and put in a new pump. Didn't solve the problem. Had a more experienced guy come out from the same company. We basically tore the thing apart. We found an underwire from one of my wife's bras (she wondered where it went) along with a bunch of lint in the recirculation tube. You can see the outlet of the tube at the top back of the drum. We also found one of her small booty socks inside the tub blocking the drain tube. We fished everything out and it works great again. I have a two foot long cable grabber that we needed to get the sock out of the tub. You'd be amazed at where things can get trapped in these things. So, I spent $230 or so for a pump that I probably didn't need, but the new pump design is vastly superior to the old one so I'm not complaining too much. The company didn't charge me for the repeat visits, which was nice because the senior repair guy was at my house for about four hours at the end of his day. So the more experience guy and I brainstormed about why all the different error codes came on and this is what we came up with.
CA and CI -- These are current fault codes. Either the average draw or and instantaneous draw tripped a set maximum. These were likely caused by the pump trying too hard to pump thru the blockage in the drain line.
ld -- This stands for long drain. The pump must be able to drain the water form the tub within a certain time frame, if not, you will get this error code. Again, likely came from the sock blocking the drain tube. This may have also came on because the washer recirculates the water throught its cycle. With the recycle tube clogged by the underwire and lint, the only place for the water to go was out the drain. With that being clogged as well, the ld code comes on at the beginning of the cycle.
ob -- stands for out of balance. This one confused me a bit, because I was getting an out of balance signal with nothing in the washer. Apparently, with too much water in the tub and the thing sloshing around, an ob signal is very common with the drain clogged.
SL -- is for suds lock. You can get this one if you put too much soap in the thing. It can also come if you use conventional soap instead of high effencicy soap. I only got this one once. This message can also be caused by a faulty pump.
Hope this helps anyone with these problems. I wouldn't have wanted to tackle this one myself, but probably could do it now after helping with the repair last night. I know these machines have a bad reputation, and I wouldn't buy one of these again, but when its working, my wife and I think it does a good job washing our clothes.
SOURCE: flashing code F-6
F06
Drive motor tachometer error
The control is unable to properly detect motor speed and the machine will
shut down. If a failure occurs during high-speed spin the door will be
unlocked after 3 minutes.
Potential Causes
• Check wire harness connections between the Drive Motor/Tachometer and
the Motor ControlUnit (MCU), and between the MCU and the Central Control
Unit (CCU)
• Check the Drive Motor
• Check the MCU
• Check the Wire Harness
Replace failed component.
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