The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.
You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
SOURCE: washer trips breaker when it gets to spin cycle
Hi,
The motor has lost the ability to turn the one way. when it tries to turn in that direction it cannot and draws high amps which kicks the breaker...
washer mootrs go one way for the wash but the other way for the spin...
This tip will explain it in more detail...
Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4617986-washing_machine_not_pump_or_spin
heatman101
SOURCE: washer fills but trips breaker when trying to
Hi there
OK thank for writing to fix ya. Sounds like your breaker can't support your washer so you need to replace you breaker where it can handle you washer. just go up another 30amps on your breaker and try that. let me know how that goes.
Best regards Richard
SOURCE: It does not drain after the rinse cycle.
Hi,
If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...
Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4617986-washing_machine_not_pump_or_spin
If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...
Front Load Washing Machine not draining and or not spinning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4784376-front_load_washing_machine_not_draining
heatman101
SOURCE: machine will not work, motor hums
It appears your motor/motor controller has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
SOURCE: whirlpool washer machine WTW5790SQO washer trips circuit breaker half way through cycle
you are pulling to many amps see if breaker is faulty first.....see if washer is in the spin and jumping around when this happens run washer with out wash in it and see if it does it something is pulling to many amps to blow breaker or could be just a bad breaker,,,, pulg something else in the wall plug that the machine is plugged in to (like a toster) and see if it trips then if so probably the breaker
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