HuskyRancher61 white top---Too much compression, can not pull thru more than one rotation of flywheel. Exhaust side is clear can not turn fast enough to get spark. Any suggestions?

Oooo hmmm . Wow ....
John could be many things , how old is this Briggs ?
Well first thing i would do us remove spark plug . This takes any compression off that adds to the load and for SAFTEY reasons in the following step.
Try to roll the crank shaft from the blade , it is directly bolted to output crankshaft and will give you som leverage .
USE MEDIUM HEAVY GLOVES
Flip mower on its side opposite of the oil filler plug . Now looking at the blade you want to rotate counter clockwise (i beleive )
or roll the same way leading sharp edge is facing . You may have to rock the blade slightly back then forward . This should move the crank and rod ,piston once it moves it should be free enough to go only 1/2 full revolution , don't roll completely full revolution . The idea is to get the piston down . Usually when they seize piston is
top dead center on either compression or exhaust stroke . That doesn't matter . Now if you have it this far you should be able to move fairly easily but slowly in same direction on the second half as piston us coming up , notice if it is gaining restriction and becomes harder and then seizes again . If so rod wrist pin is may be at falt . If it continues through travel , repeat in same direction over and over . . If all is fine , flip mower back on wheels and THEN remove top pull cord housing to expose flywheel .
Place the housing on the soft ground so it will dig in a little and pull back on pull cord . If does not pull your problem will be in the centrifical cam locks that engage out ward to turn flywheel . Easy Peasy fix . May be simply binded pull cord . Pull cord sometimes will jump sheave and get in between on the top of sheave and housing .
Let us know what you find , I'm especially curious .
use the comment box and I will get a notification that you commented ......... Later John ....... Thanks

Husqvarna 61 1980 02 Chainsaw Parts

your emergency brake is on,pull back on the lever or adjust it,or loosen the chain

three people i know plus myself have this same problem with this same model tractor. new starters and new batteries did not help any of us

As you requested Steve; but you say you have spark.
Ignition module gap
Place a business or index card between the fly wheel and coil, rotate until the magnetic attraction pulls everything tight together. Tighten the coil screws, rotate the flywheel until the attraction eases and remove the card. Ensure nothing contacts when flywheel is rotated.

Is the choke open? You have enough fuel you should not need the choke. I think she is flooded. Do you have your OM handy? Might be a good time to review to flooded procedure. Probably similar to warm start with a lot of pulling.
Start Procedure
Cold:

1. Ignition on/off to on.
2. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
3. Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls; no more than 4).
4. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
5. Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull).

Warm:

1. Ignition on/off to on.
2. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
3. Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) – Do not pull with choke closed.
4. Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull).

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Lou

sir as for the flywheel i use a good sturdy steering wheel puller from snap-on part number cg6095a it works great with a 3/8 inch impact wrench, the vibration from the impact wrench will zip the flywheel right off

on to the valves, remove the valve cover and get out your feeler gauges. rotate the crankshaft to top dead center......now rotate the engine 15 degrees past tdc to clear the automatic compression release valve......loosen the set screw or jam nut on the rocker arm pivot......adj the valves to 4-5 thousands of an inch, both intake and exhaust valves. reasemble with new valve cover gasket number 11009-2433 hope this steers u in the right direction......good luck

Basics to check:
1) Spark plug - brown or dark brown - OK
a) is it carbon or fuel fouled
b) is there spark

2) Muffler remove for inspection
a) exhaust screen clean or plugged
b) inspect cylinder wall/piston as the flywheel is slowly rotated
3) Check cylinder compression


I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae

Basics to check:
1) Spark plug - brown or dark brown - OK
- aluminum or silver - piston/cylinder scored
a) is it carbon or fuel fouled
b) is there spark

2) Compression - 125 to 150 psi

3) Muffler remove for inspection
a) exhaust screen clean or plugged
b) inspect cylinder wall/piston as the flywheel is slowly rotated

Depending on type of saw, you may see a small amount of fuel/mist while it is running, but I do not think you should see it as you pull the rope. If you make it thru the above checks, you should have a good idea what is going on with it.


I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae

Remove spark plug
Remove cover from engine that covers the flywheel
Remove rockerarm cover or valve cover
Find TDC (top dead center) by rotating the flywheel by hand and your finger over the spark plug hole as you rotate the flywheel you will feel pressure against you finger at some point then stop.
This is the compression stroke it is called now find a long slim round piece of plastic or plastic ink pen to stick in the spark plug hole (If you are careful a slim screwdriver can be used ) and find the piston top, then slowly rotate flywheel again (cw) as the piston is moving up pushing the plastic up as you rotate the flywheel slowly.
a max. piston up or tdc as you turn you will feel and then the piston starts to go the other way,at that transition this is tdc (piston is on top of stroke) leave it there,,both valves should be closed at that point.
Have a feeler gauge and set the exhaust valve at a loose .002 and the intake a loose .004 be sure engine is cold when valves are adjusted
Feeler gauge goes in between the rocker arm tip and valve stem top for each valve setting.
Note the rocker adjustment at the push rod side of each valve by tightening and loosening to make adjustments,lock your adjustments in place and rotate flywheel a few times and recheck settings

need a little more information .. but look for the following .. take out the spark plug and look inside with a flashlight ... if the piston is moving with the rotation of the flywheel then you likely have a blown head gasket .. if there is no compression there wont be a load on the pull cord .. a cracked or damaged piston can also do this .. ... if the piston is not moving when you rotate the flywheel then you likely have a bad "shear key" sometimes called a "shear pin" .. thats usually a half moon shaped small metal part that keeps the flywheel locked rotationally to the crankshaft .. it is designed to shear off if there is an excessive sudden load on the engine .. the flywheel will then spin without turning the crankshaft .. the same thing will happen if you have broken the connecting rod .. (a rod failure is often preceded by lots of clatter from the engine) .. the head gasket or shear key are much more likely to be your problem .. if you cant see in the spark plug hole you might try using a straw to feel the piston motion .. its possible that without the spark plug in place the piston might move even with a bad shear pin .. because with no compression the piston will move freely .. if thats the case you can stop the piston motion with a wood dowell thru the spark plug hole .. if it moves in spite of your dowell resistance then consider the head gasket option ..

you may have sticking valve or a weak or broken valve spring sometimes an exhaust valve rotator , it maybe that the # 1 cylinder exhaust valve is slightly bent and when it rotates to a certain spot it hangs slightly... requires inspection for confirmation, due a compression test or a cylinder leakdown % test...