Rear wheel locked up

Did u put e brake on? Either way brakes are froze.

Hi,
It splits the brake load between left front & rear right and right front & rear left
and
it uses the ABS system to proportionately reduce brake pressure to a wheel which is at the limit of its adhesion.
So, if the brake is about to lock & skid the wheel, the DSP-system reduces the pressure to that wheel, so that it continues to brake a little, but doesn't skid & lose braking-effect altogether.

Your vehicle should have rear drum brakes...They have to be adjusted manually for correct adjustment...People say they self adjust but it is not good enough....by adjusting the rear it will decrease the pressure on the front and deliver equal braking...This will help eliminate caliper pressure overload....I'm not saying that is your caliper problem but it is insult to injury and will save the life of front brakes.....Now your caliper problem..FYI..A rule of thumb is anytime you change a caliper you should always replace both calipers to have identical braking pressure".The same with brake hoses and rear wheel cylinders.....The caliper that froze in the first place got hot and boiled the brake fluid and quite possibly partially collapsed the caliper brake line/hose inside as Clint and Frank stated....I am going to guess that the first caliper froze under normal conditions however got hot enough to internally damage the caliper line/hose...Then you may think of the pressure regulator being bad in which case could be a problem......So this is what you do".Since we know the left front caliper line/hose has been exposed to heat it needs to be replaced anyway...also the fluid was boiled and it needs to be changed / bled...The new caliper that froze should be ok unless it was bad off the shelf which is rare but possible."..Change the line/hose,bleed the brake system and let the mechanic test drive before you pay and leave..The mechanic will know before driving if the new caliper that froze is bad or not by rotating the wheel...This is the cheapest way...And you will know if the pressure regulator is bad or not just by bleeding system........I hope this helps....."Brooks/Metalpoet....."....

Could be your wheel bearing or your axle.Well jack the left side of the car and shake the wheel little bit and see if there is any play on the wheel and also turn the wheel with your hands and hear if there is any strange scrapping.

If only the rear tire's are lock, you can still have it towed to your home, set rear of car on jack stands, remove tire, with hammer hit all around brake drum till it breaks loose, used a prie bar on wheel studs, over one and under an other one so you can turn drum.

jack up vehicle and put on stands ,then remove the wheel nuts ,get assistant to hold a plank of wood on wheel and then hit the plank with a 7kg hammer ,the alloy wheel has corroded to the brake disk ,when free put copperslip on the inside of the wheel rim that will stop it corroding up again

put car in reverse and very gently try to back up,it is possible the the brakes have locked on (rusty )low miles will cause brakes rust very quickly.a few stop/starts will clear them.

jack the vehicle up and remove the wheel and use a hammer to hit the rotor around the edges and it should loosen up enough to drive it to get thing back to normal.

did you see if they need replaced?
and also the emergancy cable may be froze

there should be a button at the end of the handbrake. may have to pull up on hand-brake to push button in.