The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.
You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
SOURCE: My Kenmore Elite front loader has no power.
the power is on but the start button does not start the machine
SOURCE: Last night the WM2077C washer showed a LE error.It
Hello there:
this LE means this
LE
Locked motor error. Cause: The connector
(3-pin), male,white) in the motor harness is not connected to the
connector. (3-pin,female,white) of stator assembly. Or the electrical
contact between the connectors. (3-pin,male,white) in the motor harness
and 4-pin,female,white connector in the main PWB assembly is bad or
unstable. Or the motor harness between the stator assembly and main PWB
assembly is cut (open circuit) Or the hall sensor is out of
order/defective.
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SOURCE: I was doing a small load of laundry when the breaker tripped
Sounds like an electrical short somewhere in the washer. Needs to be checked out by qualified service tech.
SOURCE: Have an older Maytag top load washer. Probably 10
Hi,
This could be a bad timer. Try changing setting on timer and truing it on. One thing for sure you have a dead short... This could be the timer or the motor or it could be a wire inside the cabinet shorted out... There should be 2 clips on the top front of machine that hold the top douwn use a putty knife or other thin but stiff object to pust in on those clips while pulling up on top at the same time then you can fold the top back out of the way and just look for anything unsuual. Burnt/ broken wires loose wires etc... The front will need to be removed to observe motor area... Usually 2 screw at top left and right the pullout and up... Smell around the motor for that burned rubber smell.
Please let me know if I can do anything else to help
SOURCE: our washer trips the breaker...
Chris; My GUESS is that the transmission (the machineary which moves the adgitator) is binding up. This is causing your motor to pull more current and thus trips the breaker. If you have no experience call around to repair places and ask them to estimate replacing a transmission and if it is available. Make sure they give a price for the parts and the labor seperately. *Mark*
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