IS IT DIFFICULT TO OIL THE WORM GEAR MYSELF? IS THERE SOME WAY I COULD LEARN ONLINE HOW TO DISASSEMBLE MY CAMCORDER AND KNOW WHERE THE WORM GEAR IS/ WHAT & HOW TO OIL IT?

Install worm gear, then oil pump then washer then bearing and clutch housing and clutch.

There are no adjustments for this machine. Chances are that the plastic gear that is driven by the worm gear has a spot that is worn down and when worm gear hits this spot, it does not drive . Replacing gear is the only remedy. Good luck.

You need to do some maintenance on your saw. First unplug it. Then blow out the sawdust from inside the saw, especially around the trunnion ways and gears and worm gears that engage them to raise/lower and tilt the saw. Use a good quality lubricant to lube these worm gears and the shafts and pivot points. I use motor oil, have for years, and find it does a better job and lasts longer than any kind of grease or silicone. Use an oil can with a long spout so you can direct the oil where needed, then move the saw up/down or right/left to work the oil into the worm gear and mechanism. In a pinch WD40 is fine, though it won't last as long. Periodic re oiling will maintain the mechanism in peak condition, and the drops of oil you spill in the process won't do any damage to your so. No, it won't get gummed up with sawdust. Try it, you'll like it.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

Hi JO18395. I believe you meant to say the ‘gears’ are stripped... But, to answer your question you will need to go “under the hood” to determine which gear assembly has failed.
The inspection and troubleshooting of the mixer transmission is a DITY capability, particularly if your mixer is out of warranty. Just be sure to have the correct Part List manual around when you start to disassemble your mixer. If you're lacking one, you can download it from the KA website (http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home).
Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals& Guides> and enter the 6 character model number, in this case K45SSW, and then select the file under Parts List (1) K45SSWH0.pdf (341.41 KB) (be sure to check that it this matches your mixer).
Turn to pages 4 & 5 titled: “Case, Gearing & Planetary Unit,” for the disassembly, troubleshooting, and reassembly of your mixer, along with all the parts. I suspect your culprit gear is Illus. No. 8, Worm Gear, in Illus. No. 38, Worm Gear Bracket and Gear assembly. KA designs this gear to fail on purpose so the rest of the mixer will not self destruct.
Once apart you can check for any other unseemly wear and tear on the gears, etc. You may find more parts that need replacement than just a bad gear. You may also want to consider replacing all the grease, particularly if gear debris is suspended in it.
Besides any replacement gear(s) and grease you might consider replacing the gasket (Illus. No. 19) and “O”-ring (Illus. No. 34), too. I recommend using a food-grade grease that you can order online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call).
It can be messy but quite gratifying to diagnose and repair your mixer yourself.
Here are some links to several excellent websites that detail the disassembling/greasing and reassembly of a KA Mixer.

• http://www.artisanbreadbaking.com/discussions/kitchen-aid.htm
• http://www.neilcrockett.com/mixer.htm
• http://www.foodonthefood.com/food_on_the_food/2009/04/how-to-repair-a-kitchenaid-mixer-yourself.html

Between these three websites and their excellent pictures and descriptions and your Parts List manual, you should now be able to completely disassemble and reassemble your mixer.
If you feel this is beyond your capabilities and will be too difficult to do by yourself you can take your mixer to a local small appliance repair shop and have them troubleshoot and fix your mixer. KA Customer Care can provide you with the name and phone # of the closest authorized KA repair shop in your area or you can do a Online web search, but be sure to get at least three estimates before deciding to commit to one repair shop.
Good luck and have fun. I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA
If this solution has helped you, please rate it. - hslincoln

HI There I have the same problem with the same chainsaw. I have stripped mine down and it's fairly simple to gain access to the oil pump. Mine has turned out to be the worm gear that turns the pump and possibly the pump. I am going to replace both but can't find a supplier for the pump and worm gear, if anyone can help me with a supplier that would be great. As for stripping out the pump you have to remove the gear wheel to do this you have to remove the spark plug and insert a tool to stop the engine turning while you tap the gear wheel off. there should be an arrow on the gear wheel but it will be a left hand thread. once this is off thereare a couple of collars around the shaft that will slide off then there is a couple of screws to take a plastic plate off this has to come next. once this is off there is the worm that is like a washer that sits on the shaft and rotates and has a thread on the underside that turns the pump. then there are two screws holding the pump in. Hope this helps.

Extremely difficult! If the oil pump or worm gear is defective it may be the most difficult saw to repair. This is the only saw I have seen with the oiler mounted behind the fly wheel.

Your basic model number is 600035. There are 11-, 21-, and 22- prefixes used with 600035s. There are also a ton of suffixes with the 600035s. I think the suffix is on your saw immediately after the basic model number somewhere (usually on bottom of older Macs along with the serial number. The dash of the serial on older Macs is the prefix). I must defer to you to find your exact IPL, here:
McCulloch IPLs
http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/McCulloch/139.59.html

I chose this one as an example "22-600035-58" for an IPL
http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/MCC/22-600035-58-Mac-3516-IPL-211229-01/139.22-600035-58-Mac-3516-IPL-211229-01.1.59.1.html
The "Powerhead Assembly" lists an oil pump (1) and a worm gear (10). These are the most common failure on most saws but Macs have many more hoses than most. There are oiler components on at least 2 different details. It appears the oil pump is on the starter side of the engine. and you may need to remove the fly wheel for access. I would examine every connection and perhaps try the "Kit Gear/Plunger Assembly" before trying to access the oil pump and gear.

Oil System Plugged.

1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
2. Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.

If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear. Please see the IPL to aid in oiler component identification.

You can reply below with any questions. I hope you found this most helpful. Good Luck
Lou
If you opt to remove the fly wheel PLEASE reply to me first. I can probably save you a couple of headaches and may prevent component breakage.

It sounds like you have lost some teeth from your worm gear. This usually happens when the mixer has been overloaded. The teeth on the worm gear are designed to fail first to prevent more serious damage. To replace the part you will need to open the head on your mixer. The gears are at the front of the mixer packed in grease. It should be obvious that the worm gear has broken once the head is open. If it is not the worm gear, with the head open it should be easy to spot the problem. The gears are available as spare parts from several places on the internet. search for "kitchenaid worm gear".

When you replace the worm gear, you should be able to see if you need more grease. This will have been the "oil" you saw escaping.

Hi AKRAUSSFAN, I hate it when that happens! From the description of your mixer’s symptom your mixer’s had a transmission failure in the primary gear box or the planetary gear assembly (agitator). One of the main gears has failed, hence the loss of power to the agitator, while the electric motor still runs.
The inspection and troubleshooting of the mixer transmission is a DITY capability, particularly if your mixer is out of warranty. Just be sure to have the correct Part List manual around when you start to disassemble your mixer. If you're lacking one, you can download it from the KA website at: (http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home).
Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals& Guides> and enter the 6 character model number, in this case KSM190P, and then select the file under Parts List (61) KSM150PSWH0.pdf (773.44 KB) (definitely check to see if this matches your mixer).
Turn to pages 4 & 5 titled: “Case, Gearing & Planetary Unit”, for the disassembly, troubleshooting, and reassembly of your mixer, along with all the parts. I suspect your culprit gear is Illus. No. 6, Worm Gear, in Illus. No. 27, Worm Gear Bracket and Gear assembly. KA designs this gear to fail on purpose so the rest of the mixer will not self destruct.
Once apart you can check for any other unseemly wear and tear on the other gears, etc. You may find more parts that need replacement than just a bad worm gear. You may also want to consider replacing all the grease, particularly if there are gear particles suspended in it.
Besides needing a replacement worm gear and grease, you might consider replacing the gasket (Illus. No 15), too. I recommend using a food-grade grease that you can order online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call).
Here are five potential vendors in no particular order: RepairClinic.com; mendingshed.com; searspartsdirect.com; partstore.com; and Grainger.com (for grease). You should search for ‘food grade grease’ online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call). Prices can vary widely between vendors, so do some comparison shopping.
Here are some links to several excellent websites that detail the disassembling/greasing and reassembly of a KA Mixer.

• http://www.artisanbreadbaking.com/discussions/kitchen-aid.htm
• http://www.neilcrockett.com/mixer.htm
• http://www.foodonthefood.com/food_on_the_food/2009/04/how-to-repair-a-kitchenaid-mixer-yourself.html

Between these three websites and their excellent pictures and descriptions and your Parts List manual, you should now be able to completely disassemble and reassemble your mixer.
If you feel this is beyond your capabilities and will be too difficult to do by yourself you can take your mixer to a local small appliance repair shop and have them troubleshoot and fix your mixer. KA Customer Care can provide you with the name and phone # of the closest authorized KA repair shop in your area or you can do a Online web search, but be sure to get at least three estimates before deciding to commit to one repair shop.
Good luck and have fun. I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA
If this solution has helped you, please rate it. hslincoln

Just a thought: Is it cold where you are? At this saw mill where it is my job to keep chain saws running, learned years ago that you cannot use "bar oil" in winter. Need thinner oil, like motor oil. ....preferably a "non-detergent" motor oil, plain 30-weight is OK, HD30W will work, but the HD part causes the chain to stretch more so than standard bar oil. The bar oil literally is so thick in cold that it stripped the worm gear out of a Poulan Pro oil pump (plastic gear, anyways, wasn't much to begin with.) But thought you may want to try thinner oil, if it is cold where you are. Oh yea we also have 2-Husqvarna 359's with 20-inch bar, and use thinner oil in winter. Our Husqvarnas have an oil adjuster located on bottom, on clutch side. Straight slot screw adjustment.

sounds as though the focus motor worm gear is binding up. I have ,at times been able to take this assebly off the zoom lens ,oil it and reinstall it. very very light amout of floil, a very thin oil. Also the zoom motors worm gear binding will cause this problem, sometimes one of these motor/worm gear assemblies will have to be replaced.