Question about Samsung Washing Machines
This would be a major undertaking and requires special tools. Your washer has a "Clean Tub" cycle which you should use instead, as instructed, with a special purpose detergent such as (many alternatives are available)
You may need to do this twice over if the washer has not so been treated for a while.
If you are saying you have done this and it did not succeed, seek specialist advice from Samsung support.
Posted on Jun 16, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kitchenaid Top Loader leaks
It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
* General tips
* Balance the load
* Level the machine
* Inspect the water pump for a blockage
* Inspect the coupling
* Inspect the transmission
* Adjust the drive belt tension
* Check the motor bearings
* Check the drum brakes
The above are possibly the general remedies for this problem.But possible if the problem still persists after this, possibly the drum bearings might have been damaged during the previous heavy vibrations.Please do post comments.Will be glad to help you out.Good luck.
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
If it does not drain, I'd check the water pump first (for an obstruction - I found a sock in my pump and that fixed my problem) ... see this video - the top is getting to the WM drive shaft (transmission), but it shows you how to remove the pump first: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLPGs2UMUJc&feature=related
If it does drain ... Is it just the TOP part of the agitator not working, or the whole thing (agitator is in 2 parts)? If just the TOP, you probably just need new "dogs" (agitator dogs). Check this out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5wIN1J70-Y ... it shows you what to do.
If it is the whole agitator that is stuck, that video will show you how to remove it (remove a single bolt) and you can see if there is an obstruction keep the agitator from moving.
If there's no obstruction or the water pump isn't stuck, you might be looking at a new drive/transmission = expensive. Good luck
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
SOURCE: how do you remove agitator
Hi. The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly, which is removable as well. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction.
Various makes and models differ in how the agitator is removed. In some newer models, the agitator just lifts straight up and out. However, in most models you will have to preform a combination of the following steps. First remove the fabric softener dispenser, if any. It should either lift or screw off. Next remove the cap. It may lift off, screw off or failing that, it may need to be pried off.
Beneath the cap some agitators are secured in place by a bolt. Use a socket wrench with an extension to remove that bolt. Some Maytag's may have a screw near to the bottom of the agitator post that must be removed. Now try to lift the agitator straight up, possibly with a little back and forth rocking motion. Use caution when pulling, the agitator may come loose suddenly and hit you in the face or send you flying backward.
If the agitator is particularly stubborn, you can loop some rope under one side of the agitator at the bottom and then up over a broom handle. Now loop it again under the other side of the agitator and back up to the broom. Brace one end of the broom handle against the top of the washer and lift up on the other end. Double check that you have removed anything that may be securing the agitator in place. Do not use too much force or you may damage the washer cabinet, agitator or injure yourself.
Posted on Aug 04, 2009
An OE error presents if the washing machine has not successfully drained the water in ten minutes.
there are a few simple steps to take before calling for service.
Step 1: Check the drain pump filter.
Items caught in the drain filter will prevent proper drainage. Over time build up can occur from detergents and additives used in the machine. Manually drain unit through the drain hose, then lay a towel down to catch the water, and remove the filter. Clean the filter thoroughly and restart the machine.
Step 2: Check the washers drain hose.
If the drain hose is not installed properly, the washer will not drain properly. The drain hose should not be installed more than 1 meter higher than the bottom of the washing machine.
Step 3: Confirm that the washer is leveled properly.
If the unit is not leveled properly, it will not drain properly. The front of the unit cannot be higher than the back or vice versa. If not properly leveled, the water can flow back into the machine. If this is the cause of the problem, please level the machine using the supplied leveling wrench. When you place a level on the washing machine, the bubble should be in the center. Confrim that the washer is leveled from side to side and front to back.
you can perform a diagonal test when leveling the washing machine to ensure that the unit does not tilt from corner to corner.
Thanks for contacting fixya.com
Posted on Sep 30, 2009
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