Unit surged a couple of times then popped breaker. Next day, plugged in and unit started up. Unplugged, removed from sleeve, remove outer cover. Cleaned unit thoroughly. Reassembled. Unit runs fine, but fan motor always runs on high - in "fan only" mode, I can hear relays click in response to fan speed control change, but fan does not change. Compressor cycles as expected in cool mode. Once, unit coughed and blew a puff of acrid smoke out exhaust, but there is no obvious arcing and a wiring seems fine.
The resistor to the fan is bad.
Testimonial: "There is no external resistor on this model. There are 3 wires coming from the control board (that appear to be low, med, high fan speeds) and two more that appears to be power/ground. I'm willing to believe that there is an internal short in the speed control mechanism inside the motor - is there a test I can do with a voltmeter to diagnose it? Is there a test I can do to check control board outputs? How about the capacitor?"
"There is no external resistor on this model. There are 3 wires coming from the control board (that appear to be low, med, high fan speeds) and two more that appears to be power/ground. I'm willing to believe that there is an internal short in the speed control mechanism inside the motor - is there a test I can do with a voltmeter to diagnose it? Is there a test I can do to check control board outputs? How about the capacitor?"
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SOURCE: cooling has stopped
Apparently the freon has escaped or the metering device for the freon is plugged up. Either way, it's expensive. Check your warranty for "sealed system" repairs.
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The capacitor is a starting help. The volt/ohm meter can help pointing out a short in the coil-windings. Good success.
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